PRIME TIME

Award-winning steaks and riverside dining at the Millennium Hilton

Steak lovers are spoilt for choice in Bangkok these days. Cattle are being pampered around the world and their best chunks of beef are flying in daily, landing on plates across the capital. But for the true beef fiend, only the best will do.

Of course, throwing superlatives at food is a highly subjective game, and a great meal is a combination of food, location and dining companion. Raising the topic of Bangkok’s best beef with friends or colleagues will likely result in a barrage of opinions, so it’s wise to take counsel from the experts.

Thailand Tatler, for example, takes its food awards seriously, so if a restaurant wins their prestigious Best Steakhouse award it’s quite an achievement. Prime at the Millennium Hilton has won the Tatler award for no less than the last eight consecutive years, along with garlands from BK Magazine and the Miele Guide.

Prime sits riverside on the Thonburi bank, in an area that’s recently become a hip, arty enclave and is getting ready to host the Icon Siam cluster of new malls. Prime is one of a choice of restaurants in the luxe Millennium Hilton, including their rooftop ThreeSixty Lounge, named for its panoramic view of both the skyscraping city skyline to the east and the late afternoon sun dipping behind the more traditional and historic buildings out west.

While the lounge offers stunning 32nd floor views, it’s the 3rd floor Prime which is best for viewing the nightly theatre of the busy Chao Phraya river. Dinky ferries zip between the giant dinner cruisers that ply the waters, all lit by sparkling hotel lights, and it’s easy to imagine Bangkok as a hectic aquatic trading post of yore, albeit one festooned with festive sparkle. Be sure to call ahead and book a table by the window, especially at weekends.

Also reflected in the windows is the subdued romantic lighting and open kitchen of the restaurant. Every chair in Prime is a high-backed, deep caramel leather throne solid enough to provide the substantial support needed for the meat feast we’re about to embark on. But first, pre-appetiser, a little bread. The spiced and carrot breads are delicious, but beware. Don’t gorge, or you’ll regret using up valuable digestive real estate.

The meal begins in earnest with the appetiser, and on our visit we were served broiled langoustine tails (990b) and a wild mushroom soup (360b). The soup was delivered as a small cauldron of shrooms, with the staff adding the creamy soup at the table. While the soup has a solid earthiness and a slight sweetness, the langoustine is rich and delicious. Stir up its cream sauce to reveal a darker layer of sweet beaten almond milk below.

For wine recommendations, it’s wise to ask any one of the delightful, all-female staff. Suggested pairings are a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for the soup and an Australian Viognier for the langoustine. More than 200 wines are on display in the glass-walled private dining room which is available to book free of charge and seats 8-12 persons.

While the appetisers are delicious, they’re not the reason why most of the customers are here. It’s the beef that draws both the discerning diners and top accolades. At Prime, the beef journeys from the fields of Japan, Australia and America to the table without being frozen. The meat is instead chilled en route, thereby preserving the special flavours of the Tajima and Miyazaki cattle.

The cooking process sets Prime apart and produces steaks that are award magnets. The open kitchen boasts a wood-fired stove where the cuts, after being conventionally grilled to your preference, absorb the flavours of the flavoured chips within. Our hefty 6oz ribeye (3,999b) gets smoked with mesquite and hickory woods blended with Jack Daniels-soaked oak chips.

The result is an outstanding cut, cooked medium rare, with the Jack Daniels chips adding a smoky kick with the slightest hint of sweetness. The rib eye is their most popular dish, but Prime also serves Miyazaki beef with marbling scores so high that the steaks have to be cut thinly to avoid becoming too rich and oily.

However, despite the quality and reputation of the Wagyu, there’s more to Prime than beef. The lamb rack (1,950 baht) is baked in fresh herbs and hay, and is served with large Kalamata olives. Tread carefully here: a small sliver of olive is all you need to expand the spectrum of flavours, otherwise you’ll obscure the delicious taste of the lamb. The jus is creamy without being overly sweet, adding to the delicate and interesting balance of the dish.

Or if you’re not in a turf mood, go surf. The seafood mixed grill (2,450 baht) includes the usual suspects of lobster, tiger prawn, snow fish, salmon and a mighty leg of Alaskan king crab. The wood chips for the smoking here are infused with Chardonnay, most evident in the chunk of snow fish. The pairing recommendation is a Matua Valley Pinot Noir.

All the mains are worth complementing with a side dish or two, as everything in the restaurant —from the biggest side of beef to the smallest pea — is either imported or organically produced locally. Every vegetable is crunchier and more flavoursome than you expect. Be sure, however, to leave some room for dessert.

The generous main course portions may have you believe that you’re full, but take a moment to absorb the view and also browse the dessert menu. You’ll be amazed how quickly the body can adapt and find space for a full portion of the delicious apple crumble. The sweet ice-cream and almond accents are a fitting end to this delicious feast.

Over a digestif or a coffee, take a last look at the river vista and relax into the soothing soundtrack of artists such as Nina Simone and Edith Piaf. Perhaps now is time to congratulate yourself on picking a winning venue.

The menu is not only served throughout the festive season, but year-round. Why wait for Christmas.

For bookings, call 02 442 2000.All prices are subject to service charge and tax.