THE YEAR IN STYLE
THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF FASHION IN 2015
HIGHS FIRST IN PARIS HAUTE COUTURE FASHION WEEK
For the first time ever, a Thai label was seen on the runways of the world’s haute couture capital. Although making their international debut in London last year, it was only this year that semi-couture house Busardi left a mark on the haute centre stage in Paris, notably in January, before showing again in July. Founded in 2009, the label is a familial affair run by mother and son team Busardi and Tuck Muntarbhorn. Look no further if you need exquisite cocktail numbers and gowns to make a lasting impression. Within the house’s repertoire of using stunning lace appliqués and beautifully embroidered tulle is also a long-groomed knowhow — Busardi is actually descended from one of Thailand’s oldest fashion houses, Yoswadee. Taking what she’s learned from running her mother’s brand and updating it for a fresher look, the DNA of this brand seeks to make old glamour very wearable in the 21st century.
FIRST FLAGSHIPS IN BANGKOK
Our local retail giants are giving us fewer reasons to fly abroad for a shopping spree. Look around and you’ll see that fashion names both on the high street and high-end lines from all around the world are planting down here — you don’t even have to book a plane ticket to grab those designer stilettos any more. While some of the stylish favourites that have opened their first flagships in Bangkok this year are not the most affordable names, a handful of the less eye-watering have also made their way here. With Stylenanda now on our doorstep, this affordable brand of Korean chic just made looking K-obsessed easier. In fact, their delectably colourful second store just opened up in Siam Paragon. The other two street-friendly names to open shop hail from Japan, namely BEAMS and A Bathing Ape. It’s also the year of hi-so kicks (Roger Vivier and Charlotte Olympia), while MCM, a leather accessories house from Germany, is here too. What’s really new though is super high-end men’s swimwear Vilebrequin — which sells swimming trunks that start at, gulp, 8,000 baht.
HAUTE COUTURE FOR ALL
If you were among the hundreds that braved the crazy crowds, that is. H&M’s designer collaborations bring madness and havoc every year, but this year’s collab with French fashion house Balmain is really something noteworthy. Beyond the expected hype, their selection of this particular brand is a significant step toward democratising high fashion for the masses: this has been the first time H&M has chosen to work with haute couture. Clearly, the numbers won’t boast the same level of craftsmanship, but at least now people outside the top echelons of society can have a piece of the ultimate high-end dream too. The collection is comprised of a reproduction of Balmain’s best hits, such as pearl embroidery dresses and suits with big gold buttons, which can only be the next best thing if you can’t afford the real thing. As someone who used to be standing in these maddening lines himself, creative director of Balmain Olivier Rousteing is ever so eager for inclusivity, as opposed to the old European houses’ mindset of exclusivity. Let’s hope more houses follow suit?
OVERWORKED TO THE BONE
While “creative director” seems to be a position that Thai celebutantes flock to in order to add to their biodata, it’s not exactly the most covetable title to hold in the biggest fashion houses of the world. The internet freaked out when Alexander Wang left Balenciaga in August, followed by Raf Simons’s departure from Dior and most shockingly, when Alber Elbaz said goodbye to Lanvin in October after 14 years at the helm. If anything, it only emphasises one headache fashion is steadily amassing: far too much is being created and creatives are overworked to exhaustion. The fashion doyenne Suzy Menkes sums it up quite nicely in Vogue (UK): “Like that bird in a gilded cage, creative people at the major fashion houses have everything: a circle of assistants, drivers, first class travel, access to elegant homes and celebrity clients. Everything, but time.” Of course it’s ridiculous — who can design six different clothing collections in between creating advertising campaigns, making media appearances, visiting store openings, updating social media and staging five shows a year anyway?
GOODBYE, IN THE NAME OF LOVE
Marital bliss is the enemy of fashion. Matina Sukhahuta, of Matina Amanita, gave us a heartache last year when she said she would be ditching costume jewellery in order to focus on creating a line of fine jewellery and one-of-a-kind engagement rings. This year, the founder of dapper fashion brand Commit a Sin (and recently hitched), Jan Taechanarong, is passing the torch to elder sis, May, who will now oversee and design for the brand. As if you can just hand businesses over like that — right. A shame really, since we’ve only seen a few but promising seasons of Jan’s signature of sleek suits and invisible stitching. Now that she’s married and jumped ship to take care of the family business of Bonanza Khao Yai, we’ll have to wait and see what new heights May takes the brand to. The other stunning announcement comes from Lovebird — which bids farewell this year with the announcement that their cruise collection out next March will be their last. Stock up on her sexy slits and fluttery tops while you can, because founder and designer Anisha Attaskulchai’s priority is now babies.
MODEL TO MOVIES
Cara Delevingne, one of the most popular face and bodies to be splashed across every fashion brand possible in the past few years, has called it quits with the fashion world. In August, she admitted to London’s Sunday Times that the modelling industry was taking a toll on her self-esteem and made her feel bad about her body: “If you hate yourself and your body and the way you look, it just gets worse and worse.” The British model will only be taking thespian jobs now and her debut this year in Paper Towns scored praise from movie critics despite her small role. We’ll miss this cheeky one on the catwalks and ad campaigns, but, no doubt, Kendall Jenner and her squad of supermodels are keeping our feeds busy. On our shores? Unless you count the drama queens causing up a national ruckus in The Face Thailand, it’s all quiet on the home front and we’ve yet to see the catwalk’s latest “it-girl”.