Meat & Bones gives American BBQ establishments a run for their money.
The set-up
The beginning of 2016 marked a new beginning for Meat & Bones. Once solely a presence at pop-up markets and events in Bangkok, it has now set up in permanent shop in the newly opened The Commons community mall on Thong Lor Soi 17. Clustered with more than a few other restaurants on the open-plan ground floor, seating, save for a single communal table, is nebulous — place your order and find a place anywhere among the almost assuredly crowded canteen’s many chairs and tables. An austere bronze ampersand serves at Meat & Bones’s logo, a symbol that upon closer inspection reveals itself to be fashioned from the shapes of a T-bone steak and a horseshoe. Above the counter at which customers place their orders is a chalkboard displaying the “Pitmaster’s Menu”. Split logs piled in the open kitchen hint at the way in which food is prepared, although due to sizing constraints all meat is roasted off-site, at a house on Sukhumvit Soi 105.
The menu
Through trial, error and meticulous recipe studies, founders and owners Bua, Por, Deaw and Tui — not a chef among them — have all but perfected the art of American barbecue. The menu is small, for now, and simple — ribs and chicken about does it — but plans for the future hope to see the likes of lamb and brisket thrown into the fray. But as a cuisine, barbecue isn’t about variety; it’s about meat. And is there meat to be had? Baby, please. The Eight-hour roasted BBQ beef ribs (B480) are an obvious choice, as are the Six-hour roasted pork ribs, with meat so tender it falls off the bone. The BBQ chicken drumlets (B160, four pieces; B300, eight pieces) are sweet and sloppy in an apple juice-based sauce. Side dishes are standard barbecue fare — Mashed potatoes, Cornbread (B60, small; B80, large), Cole slaw and Winter salad (B40, small; B60, large) with purple cabbage, carrots, toasted almonds and raisins. Cornbread, not often found in Bangkok, is made from scratch, and is certainly a standout that is not to be missed. Also don’t pass on an order of the winter salad.
Also notable is Ginger Fizz (B120), an organic soda produced by Raitong Organics Farm in Sisaket, for which Por does branding work. It’s the perfect hangover recovery drink — fresh, natural, lightly sweetened — and goes great with all things meat. Gac fruit juice (B120) is also available.
Insider tip
For now, the focus in on relatively simple flavours. But once things settle, the men and women behind Meat & Bones plan to push the boundaries of barbecue, perhaps placing a Thai twist to the classic American fare. Nam phrik and Thai green curry are, off the top of Por’s head, interesting experiments in potential flavour fusion. Also on the horizon are plans to move the grilling location to a house near RCA, which will be able to be rented for private dinners, gatherings or parties, offering an at-home barbecue experience.
Value and verdict
Meat & Bones is a worthy competitor in Bangkok’s American barbecue scene, which is admittedly rather small. Prices are right, meat is cooked assuredly and competently — and is all the more impressive given Por’s self-taught methods. If you haven’t already, it’s time to place an order.