Bangkok Post

Lucky Fashion

Chinese Millennial­s are tired of luxury designers putting the zodiac animal on everything and seek more authentic and modern representa­tions of their culture

- Story by Sarah Young

The official start of the Year of the Rooster in the Chinese Zodiac begins today, and the fashion industry has been paying homage in a big way. Given it’s the most lucrative time of year for designer brands to target Chinese consumers — one of the most significan­t forces in global luxury consumptio­n — a surge in zodiacthem­ed items can be seen everywhere, but they’re facing immense criticism.

Cashing in on the demand for holiday gifts, these brands are thrusting cultural references upon wealthy Chinese shoppers. However, many of the country’s millennial­s consider them outdated.

Instead of overused elements like red, yellow, phoenixes and the seasonal rooster, this new market are seeking more authentic and modern representa­tions of Chinese culture.

Take Victoria’s Secret’s eponymous fashion show for instance, which, might we add, included a total of four Chinese models for the first time ever in its squad of heavenly Angels.

The lingerie brand decided to send dragondeco­rated supermodel­s down the runway — think Adriana Lima’s yellow stiletto boots or Kendall Jenner carrying blue phoenix wings on her back — and it quickly became the subject of online criticism.

“Even the world’s most beautiful bodies are not going to save these rustic and passe Chinese-themed outfits,” wrote a Chinese web user on Sina Weibo, the country’s equivalent to Twitter.

From Dior’s rooster bracelet to Calvin Klein’s red and gold unmentiona­bles, luxury retailer’s New Year-themed products are leaving Chinese consumers disgruntle­d.

Talking of MCM’s rooster-embroidere­d bag, one person commented: “Red, gold, and zodiac signs are symbols of Chinese New Year, but why do they believe we want to carry a bag with a zodiac animal [on it] all year round?”

Other offerings include cosmetics giant Estee Lauder which has designed a golden rooster on its limited edition powder compact, while Dolce & Gabbana’s glitzy Rooster bomber jacket raking in at a mere £1,450 (65,000 baht).

Sure, the Chinese market i s becoming increasing­ly more sophistica­ted but, the ability for these brands to seamlessly and elegantly integrate authentic Chinese elements into their designs is another factor to consider.

For some, it just doesn’t add up and consumers are refusing to invest in products that aren’t consistent with the brands aesthetic. One prime example is Longchamp’s handbag which features a red and gold embroidere­d rooster: It’s off brand and out of taste.

The style of young Chinese fashionist­as has evidently evolved and, while luxury retailers will continue to cash in on this special occasion, they can’t ignore the social media backlash that many of these products have faced.

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 ??  ?? Above Lady Gaga and Sui He at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, at the Grand Palais in Paris, last November.
Above Lady Gaga and Sui He at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, at the Grand Palais in Paris, last November.
 ??  ?? MCM’s Chinese New Year 2017 collection.
MCM’s Chinese New Year 2017 collection.
 ??  ?? Longchamp’s CNY 3D bag.
Longchamp’s CNY 3D bag.
 ??  ?? Ming Xi.
Ming Xi.
 ??  ?? Liu Wen.
Liu Wen.

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