STOKING UPSERIOUS FLAVOUR
Flame-cooked cuisine with a touch of class that both meat lovers and vegetarians can enjoy
Veteran French restaurateur Frederic Meyer always goes to the extreme on his ventures.
Following the success of Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah Bottling Trust (the two restaurants in which he teamed up with chef Ian Kittichai), Pizza Massillia, Kom-Ba-Wa and Baan Phadthai, Meyer’s latest baby, barbecue-centric restaurant Le Cochon Blanc, proves that his culinary boldness and ingenuity never cease.
Bangkok’s barbecue-loving gourmands are now seen favourably flocking to the 40-seater with a winged pig logo, which opened a little over a month ago in a space which previously housed Baagadin Thai restaurant.
Boasting an active giant fire pit at its entrance hall as well as a theatrical, warmly-lit interior and nonchalant dining vibe jazzed up by deep-beat lounge tunes, the restaurant serves up heartfelt, creative renditions of flame-cooked cuisine.
In charge of Le Cochon Blanc’s cookery is American head chef Chandler Schultz. The Pennsylvania native directed a number of modern eateries of various cuisine genres from French to Mediterranean, Japanese to American seafood in the States prior to his relocation to Thailand in 2015. His specialities include barbecued ribs, crab cakes, jambalaya and chowder.
Being a casual barbecue joint doesn’t mean its menu is devoted only to primitive fare or dishes prepared with just homespun ingredients. Many dishes on the 50-item menu are the chef’s original creations and exhibit up-to-date gourmet twists.
Most, if not all, are prepared with high-end produce, including top-notch artisan French butter and cheese by Jean Yves Bordier, sausage-stuffing by Emmanuel Chavassieux and French government-certified superior grade seafood. Breads are locally sourced and come mainly from Bangkok-based French bakery Amantee — although some are crafted in-house by Schultz himself (his spiced corn bread and vegan brioche were heavenly).
Start off your meal with le saucisson (490 baht) and you won’t regret it. Accompanied by pickles, the platter features house-made sausages in three different flavour profiles, namely light smoked classic, Provençal wild herbs and spicy “Thai Feeling”. Of course, all are prepared with top-quality meat from Emmanuel Chavassieux.
Despite modest presentation, roasted romaine salad with house-cured bacon (320 baht) also sells best. The chef’s rendition of “broken Caesar salad” proved very refreshing and addictive thanks to a pleasant smoky crisp from the chilled lettuce which was complemented by a zesty lemon-vinaigrette-EVO dressing and sizeable chunks of sumptuous bacon.
Those who love creamy mozzarella can’t afford to miss smoked burrata with tomato confit (450 baht). The dish features a large, stretchy sphere of burrata cheese, not from Puglia, Italy, but a much-acclaimed artisanal producer in Thailand. The burrata revealed a buttery-tasting, stringy buffalo cheese centre which went well with the slow-cooked tomatoes, garlic toast and balsamic dressing.
Home-made smoked salmon (490 baht) is another appetiser that was not only scrumptious but also reflected the restaurant’s highbrow cooking specification. The dish presents house-cured, organically farmed Scottish salmon cherished for its natural sweet taste — accompanied by lemon cream and homemade blinis.
Of the barbecue and main course category, missing the smoked BBQ pork ribs (890 baht for a full rack) can be quite an offence. Normally I’m not a fan of the sweet barbecue-glazed meat. Yet I found Le Cochon Blanc’s version a cloud-nine creation.
The slightly crispy, charred-dry exterior of the pork ribs, which yielded a well-rounded proportion of salty, sweet and peppery tangs, assured no sauce-dripping, lip-smudging Instagram moment. While the meat inside allowed taste bud ecstasy thanks to its very juicy and tender quality.
All meats are enhanced by a selection of house sauces offered on every table. Although I found no need for the condiments, I can’t miss mentioning that the smoked pineapple barbecue sauce, the green Sriracha chilli sauce and Thai-styled spicy jaew sauce were delicious.
Beef loons are spoilt for choice here thanks to a nice repertoire of wagyu steak. Truly worth having are hanger steak (1,000 baht), prepared with a remarkably flavourful cut of a 270-day aged, grain-fed Australian wagyu; and smoked barbecue short-rib (1,250 baht), showcasing an extraordinarily tender 270-day aged Black Angus ribs.
Not-to-be-missed side entrées to go with the meat include double-cooked blanc de boef Belgian fries, or hand-cut potato fried in beef fat to give a perfect crispy exterior and creamy interior (180 baht); mashed potatoes with Bordier butter (190 baht); and duck jambalaya, a New Orleans-styled rice casserole smouldered with duck meat (220 baht).
The restaurant promises an awe-inspiring experience for all types of diners, including vegetarians. Yes you’ve read it right: those who shun meat. No matter if you’re a discerning vegan or meat-addict, I guarantee you’ll be delighted by signature vegan pulled pork sandwich (690 baht).
The hearty dish is made with young jackfruit, braised in vegan pineapple barbecue sauce and served on vegan brioche bun. The original recipe is believed to come from Mexico where there’s plenty of the knobbly-skin tropical fruit. The American adopted the dish and made it very popular using imported canned fruit instead.
Here the chef opts for the fresh jackfruit which is widely grown in Thailand. The sandwich exhibited a nice crunchy texture of the baby jackfruit enhanced by a mildly sweet and sour marinade sauce. Complementing the heavy texture “pulled pork” is the light but tasty vegan bun.
Desserts are directed by executive pastry chef Arisara “Paper” Chongphanitkul, a petite lady who trained under a number of world-acclaimed patissiers and chocolatiers, including Sadaharu Aoki, Hugues Pouget and Laurent Gerbaud.
Thanks to her dexterity, the restaurant proved as much a paradise for sweet-toothed diners as it is for meat-crazed gluttons.
My two dining companions, with their haughty expectations on dessert always intact, were seen shedding tears of joy over an a-la-minute strawberry shortcake (390 baht). The extraordinary light and soft cake came with fresh strawberry, vanilla crème diplomat (stabilised gelatin-seethed pastry cream) and strawberry sauce.
As much praised, however, was creme caramel (290 baht), featuring silky vanilla custard with a side helping of super gooey salted caramel sauce. Chocolate fans will be delighted by bitter chocolate petit pot (360 baht), a chilled bowl of rich chocolate cream served with light vanilla Chantilly cream and crunchy gold pearls.
Wines, both Old World and New World, are offered mostly by the bottle. Two current options of house wine by the glass (195 baht) are represented by Italian vinos.
Our awesome dinner was completed by enjoyable service. Reservations are a must.
Le Cochon Blanc
GREAT BARBECUE HAS MORE SMOKE THAN A GRATEFUL DEAD CONCERT Le Cochon Blanc’s American head chef Chandler Schultz.
26 Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit 31 Call 02-235-9800 Open daily 6-11pm Park on the premises. Most credit cards accepted