TWO MOSQUES, A PALACE AND A BAZAAR

Persian architecture at its best in Esfahan

An immense open space bordered with Persian architectural gems, the Imam Square in the heart of Esfahan is an impressive place that takes you back to the glorious days of Iran.

I walked through a quiet park in the old capital city of Iran while the freezing winter breeze blew across my face. I knew I had to find a warm place, so I decided to follow the crowd through a dim doorway.

A few souvenirs in shop windows indicated that it was a market place. I looked around and found myself in an aisle of pointed arches that seemed endless.

Before immersing myself in shopping mode, I noticed a doorway leading to a lawn, which led into an open space. I suddenly realised that I had walked into one of the biggest city squares on Earth, Naghsh-e Jahan Square or Imam Square.

The big square, which is actually rectangular, stretches 560m from north to south and 160m from east to west. It is bordered with two-storey arcades and buildings, which showcase the best architectural designs and decorations of Iran, namely Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque to the east, Ali Qapu Palace to the west, Qeyssariyeh or Esfahan Grand Bazaar to the north and the Shah Mosque to the south.

It is a space slightly bigger than Bangkok’s Sanam Luang and is surrounded by hundreds of shops, as well as gigantic mosques and a beautiful palace, which are wonderfully adorned with enamelled ceramic tiles. It is remarkable that the square was built in the beginning of the 17th century when Esfahan was the capital under the Safavid Dynasty.

Of course, the square was the centre of culture, economy, religion, social power and Iranian politics at the time. The gigantic open space was the place for celebrations, playing polo and royal games, assembling troops and even public executions.

The lively arcades are lined with hundreds of shops offering a great variety of hand-woven tapestry, copperware and souvenirs like Persian enamels.

An elegant entrance leads to the Shah Mosque or the Imam Mosque. From the lively market, I walked through a huge arcade and iwan (a hall with one or two sides opened), which is decorated with blue ceramic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions.

Built in 1611 and completed nearly 20 years later, this mosque is honoured as an excellent example of Islamic architecture and a masterpiece of Persian architecture.

The gigantic mosque is stunning with its excellent layout and decor. Its size made me feel like a tiny ant standing in the midst of an elegant ballroom.

The eastern side of the square leads to a smaller mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah. I walked through the dimly lit walkway, and allowed my eyes to adjust to the low light conditions. Minutes later, I had to hold my breath when I found myself standing under a dome of which every square inch is decorated with delicate tile work.

Sheikh Lotfollah is a private mosque for the royal court. It has some of the best mosaic art from more than 400 years ago. The construction took nearly 20 years to complete. Though a small mosque, it is one of the most beautiful in Iran.

The small mosque does not have any minaret or courtyard. It was once called the women’s mosque, because there is a secret tunnel which women could take from the Ali Qapu Palace to attend prayers without being seen in public.

The best place to see Imam Square is from the veranda of Ali Qapu Palace situated on the western side. You have to climb up narrow stairs to the third floor, but it is worthwhile. The veranda offers a magnificent view of the entire square. You can see gigantic blue domes of the Shah Mosque, the amazing iwan of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque’s entrance, horse-drawn carriages encircling the square, children at play and people strolling from one shop to another.

Light penetrates the darkish dome of Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and gently illuminates the delicate tile work that adorns the entire place.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is famous for excellent patterns and splendid tile designs and mosaic art, which are vivid in azure, yellow and cream colours. It represents the best example of architecture and tile work of Iran from the 17th century. I also really like its Muqarna Iwan entrance with stalactite-like forms.

Decorated with colourful mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions, Shah Mosque is a magnificent example of Persian architecture and remarkable Persian tile work. Majestic in the centre of the courtyard, you will find yourself surrounded by four gigantic iwans and beautiful arcades.

The Ali Qapu Palace was originally built on a smaller scale. It was later expanded to accommodate different court functions. The palace has six floors with an elegant veranda where the Shah and the royal family once watched activities in the square. A number of lovely murals make it a very nice place. A very popular room you should not miss here is the Music Chamber, which houses wonderful decorations on its walls and ceiling.

Bastani Traditional Restaurant is hidden behind a busy corner of the square, steps from the elegant entrance of the Shah Mosque. It serves Persian cuisine amid very traditional Iranian deco.

Arcades in the square house hundreds of shops offering an excellent range of local handicrafts. If you are looking for souvenirs, this is the right place to be. In a quiet corner, there are small coffee houses where you can rest your feet and try the very strong and rich Persian coffee.