Bangkok Post

WATCHES THAT RULED THE WAVES

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Two of the greatest horologist­s of all time, Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold, were friends and contempora­ries, notable for making chronomete­rs — one supplying them to La Marine Royale Française, the other to the British Royal Navy.

Marine chronomete­rs played a crucial role in the two nations’ seafaring as they were important instrument­s for fleets to calculate ships’ positions.

Showcased at Baselworld 2017, Marine Équation Marchante 5887 pays tribute to Breguet’s maritime heritage with an inscriptio­n “Marine royale” on the tourbillio­n bar, a windrose motif adorning the barrel, and the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy, depicted on the bridges visible through a sapphire caseback.

Besides a tourbillio­n and a perpetual calendar, the Grande Complicati­on features the fascinatin­g running equation of time that by means of two separate minutes hands simultaneo­usly indicate civil time and true time.

As the visible motion of the Sun — the true solar time indicated on sundials — is irregular, watches and clocks thus became the basis of time. True solar time was replaced by mean solar time, correspond­ing to civil or standard hours and minutes, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours.

On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. The discrepanc­y between mean solar time and true solar time then ranges from minus 16 to plus 14 minutes.

The equation of time is one of the rarest horologica­l complicati­ons, which serves to display this difference between mean solar time and true solar time.

Given that the Sun’s various positions in the sky are reproduced in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmaker­s can “programme” them by means of a special cam, and mechanical­ly reproduce the path of the Sun’s successive positions, called an analemma curve.

Breguet has technicall­y taken the equation of time to the next level by developing its Marine Équation Marchante 5887 with a running solar hand adorned with a golden sun that provides a direct reading of solar-time minutes.

Requiring an arduous constructi­on process, it must sweep in a convention­al way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter by a distance that varies in accordance with the analemma curve, in order to display the equation.

The Swiss watchmaker accomplish­ed this by equipping the running solar hand with a differenti­al gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independen­tly: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year.

In addition, an extremely slim equation cam borne by a transparen­t sapphire disc also serves to correct the equation of time by month.

The running equation of time complicati­on is naturally complement­ed by the perpetual calendar. The days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle are displayed through two apertures — one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock.

The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock.

The third complicati­on, a 60-second tourbillio­n, has a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring that enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintainin­g an 80-hour power reserve displayed in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.

Besides the technical complexity, artisanal skills are features in the front dial, whose two types of engine-turning pattern were specifical­ly created for this 43.9mm timepiece.

Available in two variations, the Grande Complicati­on in rose gold has a silvered dial and an anthracite movement while the platinum interpreta­tion has a blue dial and a rhodium-plated movement.

 ??  ?? Marine Equation Marchante 5887. RIGHT
Marine Equation Marchante 5887. RIGHT
 ??  ?? LEFT Rose gold version of the Grande Complicati­on.
LEFT Rose gold version of the Grande Complicati­on.

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