Bangkok Post

THE SIMPLEST SHORTBREAD YOU CAN BAKE

Homemade shortbread is a cinch to master and makes a wonderful counterpar­t to soft summer fruit

- By Melissa Clark

Most good cooks have a few go-to dishes they can whip up without a recipe, dependable things to make on autopilot that can be adapted to fit their hunger, the contents of their fridge, or the occasion at hand. This truth doesn’t always extend to bakers, who are often at the mercy of a more complicate­d formula for their cakes and meringues. Shortbread, however, is one rich and crumbly exception.

Consisting of only four ingredient­s that you probably already have on hand (butter, sugar, flour and salt), and lacking in challengin­g techniques, shortbread is quick to master and always delightful to serve, especially as a crisp counterpar­t to all the soft summer fruit that’s just coming into season.

What makes shortbread so accessible is the simple ratio of its ingredient­s: one stick butter to 1 cup flour, with sugar and salt added to taste.

I like my shortbread on the sweeter, saltier side. But feel free to take the sugar and salt down if you want something more restrained.

In Scotland, shortbread is often made with a combinatio­n of rice flour and wheat flour, which gives it a distinctiv­e brittle crispness. Rice flour has become easier to find in the United States, thanks to a growing demand for gluten-free alternativ­es to wheat flour. If you can get it and like a pronounced crunch, try substituti­ng it for half a cup of the all-purpose flour. Other flours like whole wheat, buckwheat and cornmeal are also options for changing things up.

Classic shortbread generally doesn’t have any other flavouring­s beyond those of the core ingredient­s. At its simplest, it tastes of good butter and not much else. So always use the best butter you can get.

If you do want to add flavours, you can, as long as you don’t add more than a teaspoon or so of liquid (vanilla, almond extract or rum, for example) to the dough. Anything more than that can make the cookies soft rather than crisp. Dry ingredient­s like spices, citrus zest and vanilla seeds work better for preserving the brittle crumble of the cookie. You can also add nuts and seeds for texture and flavour.

Then bake your shortbread low and slow. It shouldn’t take on much colour in the oven, staying pale on top, turning gold at the edges. Once it’s baked and stored airtight, it will maintain its crunch for weeks — if it doesn’t get devoured first.

 ??  ?? PHOTOS: © 2017 THE NEW YORK TIMES
PHOTOS: © 2017 THE NEW YORK TIMES

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