Heartfelt visit
A tragic fire at Ban Pong, Ratchaburi, inspired King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s first royal visit as monarch in 1954, and his actions touched those affected forever
A tragic fire at Ban Pong in Ratchaburi inspired the late King’s first royal visit in 1954.
Throughout his 70-year reign, King Bhumibol Adulyadej travelled to countless places in the Kingdom, near and far, to listen to and relieve Thai people’s problems. Not many people know his first visit to his subjects took place in Ban Pong district, Ratchaburi province, in 1954 after a big fire had ravaged the local market. That visit, which took the young king to see the people’s grievances first hand, became an inspiration for the monarch to start his long, tireless and fruitful journeys throughout his reign.
The blaze broke out at 2.30pm on Sept 9, 1954 on the upper floor of Ua Eng grocery shop in the middle of Ban Pong Market and spread to other houses rapidly. It took about four hours for firemen to put out the fire that destroyed over 150,000m² of the market, killed two people (with a further three presumed dead) and caused damage of more than 100 million baht. Even a Government Savings Bank branch was razed by the fire. Fortunately, government offices and a school across the street survived the blaze.
King Bhumibol and Her Majesty Queen Sirikit visited Ban Pong Market five days after the blaze to help victims. While local residents were still in despair, King Bhumibol, accompanied by his queen, himself drove one of his cars from Ambhara Sathan Royal Mansion in Bangkok to this community without prior notice. He made such a decision because he did not want to interrupt local officials’ disaster relief work. Even Special Branch Bureau police had no idea about his urgent trip, but followed and caught up with the king and queen while they were having lunch at Sanam Chandra Palace, Nakhon Pathom.
Upon arrival at Ban Pong Market, the king drove the car around the ravaged area several times. The king and queen later stepped out of the car and talked to the affected people. Ratchaburi governor Maen Orachan, who was overseeing the disaster relief work, rushed to receive them at Ban Pong District Office, which survived the blaze. Both departed at 3.30pm. Although many years went by, the sight of the royal couple arriving in a self-driven car and watching their people from the upper-floor balcony of the district office is always remembered by the people of Ban Pong.
“The fire razed the entire market from the clock tower to the riverside. A few days later, King Rama IX and the queen visited us, local villagers. They walked in the area in front of the
district office. We were so delighted,” Ban Pong resident Arunsri Arayakirati, 85, who had the opportunity to witness the royal visit, recalled.
When the fire occurred, she was 18 and lived near the Mae Klong. She was in fear and decided to carry her little niece in her arms and escape to a boat. On Oct 13 last year, she was stunned by the passing of King Bhumibol. She and her family attended a ceremony for the people of Ban Pong to pay tribute to him.
Besides its historical importance, Ban Pong is an interesting place for anyone to explore its local way of life and the Thai, Chinese, Mon and ethnic cultures.
Tourists should not miss the opportunity of strolling around the century-old Ban Pong Market, enjoying shopping for a variety of goods and eating at many shops there. The market is also a food paradise. Among famous local restaurants are Namphu Chang Beef Noodles Shop near the elephant-shaped fountain and Racha Pork Meatball Noodles Shop on Rim Maenam Mae Klong Road.
Not far away on the opposite side of the railroad are two cultural attractions — Sangkhaha Wangtan Residence and Sombat Napaniwas Residence. Both century-old houses were the home and offices of famous local tycoon Luang Sidhtheppakan and later became the set of many Thai periodical television series and movies.
Ratchaburi is a place where people of numerous ethnicities have long lived peacefully and conserved their cultures and ways of life. These people include the Tai Yuan in Ban Khu Bua of Muang district, the Thais of Chinese descent in Muang, Ban Pong, Photharam and Damnoen Saduak districts and the Thai Mon in Ban Muang of Ban Pong district.
If you visit Ban Pong, you should visit Ban Muang to learn about the history, art, culture, religion, education and way of life of the Thai Mon. Interesting places include Wat Muang, Wat Muang Folk Museum and Wat Yai Nakhon Chum.
Situated on the west bank of the Mae Klong River in Ban Pong, 80km from Bangkok, Wat Muang is an old Mon temple dating to the Ayutthaya period of more than 300 years ago according to a palm leaf manuscript written with Mon letters.
Wat Muang Folk Museum showcases thousands of Buddhist scriptures and wrap clothes, pottery, old documents, war weapons, religious objects, houseware, farming tools, apparel and kitchenware. The museum is open on Saturdays and Sundays, from 9am-4pm. Admission is free.
The museum celebrates Songkran (Thai New Year) on April 16 every year. Visitors can taste Mon-style khao chae (rice in iced scented water with assorted dishes), enjoy Mon performances like phi kradong and saba mon, and witness simulated local traditions, such as ordination of monks.
On the east side of the river and opposite Wat Muang, Wat Yai Nakhon Chum is in another Thai-Mon community. The temple buildings include the old ordination hall, pagodas, pavilions and monks’ living quarters, in genuine Mon art style. The new ubosot which has wall paintings of the Mon way of life stands side by side with the deteriorating old ubosot which requires big restoration work.
During Songkran, Thai-Mon villagers in Ban Pong set up shrines for the goddess of Songkran in front of their houses and present khao chae to monks at local temples.
The Mon’s khao chae consists of spicy mango salad, salted radish boiled in coconut milk and sweetened shredded dried striped snakehead fish. At Mon temples, monks chant and pray in the Pali language with the Mon accent.