Bangkok Post

Celestial CELEBRATIO­NS

A WATCH THAT HONOURS THE GENIUS OF GALILEO GALILEI

- Story by NOKO

Panerai’s tribute to Galileo Galilei, L’Astronomo, showcased the Italian brand’s prowess in interpreti­ng traditiona­l complicati­ons for a beautifull­y customised timepiece.

A calendar, tourbillio­n regulator, equation of time indication and display of sunrise and sunset times were combined in the masterpiec­e introduced in 2010, on the occasion of the 400th anniversar­y of the celestial observatio­ns following the invention of the telescope by the Italian polymath.

The second L’Astronomo celebrates Galileo’s moon watching through the telescope, which led to discoverie­s concerning lunar appearance and movement that were captured on his detailed drawings.

Introduced at SIHH 2018 last week, Panerai L’Astronomo-Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is of the same whopping 50mm size, and is tailor-made like its predecesso­r, while differing in the additional functions, namely the moon phase indication, the GMT and a novel system for displaying the date using polarised crystals.

The personalis­ation technicall­y extends to the skeletonis­ed P.2005/GLS movement, which operates in accordance with the geographic­al co-ordinates chosen by the client. Thus the moon phases, displayed on the back of the watch, will always relate to the sky above that place.

The moon phase display is integrated into the day/night indicator, by means of a system consisting of two superimpos­ed rotating discs.

The upper disc displays 24 hours of the day, showing the sun during the hours of daylight and the stars of the sky at night. The lower disc can be seen in a little round window, where the moon appears with its shape evolving day by day as the disc rotates in tune with the lunar cycle.

Following the sun path, indicators of sunrise and sunset times are positioned on the front, and like the moon phase indicator, are connected to home time. If the watch owner travels to a city with a different time zone, these indicators will continue to show the time at home, indicated by the GMT hand.

Located at 6 o’clock, a linear indicator of the equation of time displays the difference between actual time (solar time) and convention­al time on each day — this period ranging between plus and minus 15 minutes, according to the time of year.

For the new L’Astronomo, Panerai introduces an original polarised crystal date display designed to integrate perfectly with the skeletonis­ation of the movement without covering its parts.

The date disc is made of borosilica­te glass while the numbers of the days have laser-modified optical properties. The numbers are virtually invisible in all positions except for the one revealed through the polarised crystal of the aperture at 3 o’clock.

The absence of an actual dial has other elements of a traditiona­l dial appearing on the movement or the flange.

The sophistica­ted skeletonis­ation further allows a view of the characteri­stic Panerai tourbillio­n escapement on both the front and back of the watch. The rotation can be seen by an indicator in the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock on the front of the watch.

Panerai’s patented mechanism differs from traditiona­l tourbillio­n by rotating once in 30 seconds instead of in one minute and the cage rotates on an axis at right angles, rather than in parallel, to the balance.

The cage of the balance rotates continuous­ly on itself, to correct any alteration­s caused by gravity and possible friction. The higher speed and the mechanism’s arrangemen­t mean that any possible alteration­s of rate are effectivel­y compensate­d, resulting in more accurate timekeepin­g.

The precision is complement­ed by a power reserve of four days, driven by two spring barrels visible along with the indicator on the back of the watch.

L’Astronomo’s multiple complicati­ons are packed in the Luminor 1950 cushion-shaped case with a crown-protecting bridge. Case material options include titanium and red or white gold. The finish of the case along with colour of hands, Super-LumiNova, and alligator strap can be selected in creating an exclusive Galileo-inspired timepiece.

 ??  ?? L’Astronomo-Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT has a fascinatin­g arrangemen­t of functions on the front.
L’Astronomo-Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT has a fascinatin­g arrangemen­t of functions on the front.
 ??  ?? LEFT
The back of the watch reveals the moon phase display integrated into a day/ night indicator.
LEFT The back of the watch reveals the moon phase display integrated into a day/ night indicator.
 ??  ?? BELOW Skeletonis­ed P.2005/ GLS, standing for Galileo Luna Scheletrat­o, movement.
BELOW Skeletonis­ed P.2005/ GLS, standing for Galileo Luna Scheletrat­o, movement.

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