Sun also rises down South

Getting to the remote district of Betong in the southernmost province of Yala involves travelling from Muang district through the Sankala Khiri mountain range. The district is located in a valley hugged by tall peaks on the border of Malaysia.

Betong, the southernmost district in Yala, is 1,220km from Bangkok and 140km from Muang district of Yala. It is only 7km from the border of the Malaysian state of Perak, making it a favourite attraction among Malaysian and Singaporean tourists. With the tropical weather and mountainous surroundings, tourists rise early to catch the magical ayaweng morning mist, considered one of the most scenic sights in the South.

Betong also holds historical significance with attractions like the Piyamitr tunnel, which was built 40 years ago as the bastion of the Malayan communist guerillas. Remnants of the insurgency era include an underground tunnel, which served as a hideout for communist rebels. Today, it has been turned into a museum displaying utensils and other objects belonging to communist insurgents. More than 200,000 people on average visit the museum each year, raking in more than 14 million baht for the local economy.

In central Betong, visitors are greeted by the friendly faces of the locals. One can also see artistic graffiti on the buildings painted by university students to celebrate 111 years since the founding of the district last year. Within the town lies the Betong Mongkolrit motorist tunnel, the first of its kind in the country to cut through a mountain, which comes decorated with lights. The town is also known for its tall clock tower strung with power cables on which clusters of swallows perch, creating a most memorable sight.

In the morning, monks collect alms and share the streets with Muslim residents. The locals now live in relative harmony, with the district experiencing increasingly less frequent insurgent violence.