Mabuhay Filipino restaurant tries to up their game, but to mixed results.
THE SETTING
The Philippines is not known for its food. In fact, it is the one country in Southeast Asia whose cuisine is the least popular. And the only Filipino restaurant to have survived 15 years in the business in Bangkok is Mabuhay (which in Tagalog loosely translates as “welcome”).
But it is 2018 and long gone are the days when Mabuhay was tucked in Petchburi 19 in a small shophouse. It is now in a big, former handbag and florist shop on the main Petchburi Road, right across the Indonesian embassy. Entering the restaurant can be sort of disorienting, as you’re unsure what the space actually is. But if you’ve been to the Philippines, then rest assured. It is reminiscent of the restaurants there, with its round Chinese tables and garish furniture. Come Sunday morning, post church services, and the restaurant will be packed with families sharing lunch.
THE MENU
It is only because my “longest suffering friend in Thailand” (her words not mine) is Filipino that I am well acquainted with Filipino food and the Philippines. I can place an order out of the top of my head and don’t need a menu with pictures of the food, as was kindly offered to me at Mabuhay.
I order the classics: Adobong manok, Sisig, Sinigang na baboy, Kare-kare and Pinakbet, all to be eaten with plain white rice. Adobong manok or chicken adobo (B220) is the Philippines national dish and at Mabuhay can also be ordered with squid or pork. The thing to note is that no adobo, a mix of soy sauce, vinegar and spice, tastes the same. Everyone has a different way of making it and while Mabuhay’s tasted okay, the chicken was a tad dry.
Sisig (B220) is my favourite Filipino dish. It is a dish that dates back to the 17th century and is a delightful mix of parts of a pig’s head (not sounding appetising at this point, I realise) — cheeks, snout, ears — with bits of liver. These are boiled, chopped fine and fried with chilli, onions and garlic. The dish is served on a sizzling platter with a fried egg, sunny side up, and a generous squeeze of calamansi (the beautiful citrus from the Philippines). If you only ignore what is actually in the dish and taste it with an open mind, you’re in for a treat. Though watch out for the cholesterol shock to your system! The sisig at Mabuhay fell a tad short for me. But to be fair nothing has come close to the best I’ve had in a beach shack in Aclan in the Philippines.
For peanut butter lovers, Kare-kare (B280) is your dish of choice and I chose the beef version, though there isn’t much meat to be had. This perennial favourite usually starts with a base of oxtail, beef stew cuts, pork hocks or tripe and is cooked for hours till tender and is mixed with a variety of vegetables, rice flour and ground peanuts for that peanut butter deliciousness. Not much of this dish can be eaten, as the peanuts make it very rich.
Sinigang na baboy (B250) is a tangy soup with pork, though bony parts are used. Vegetables like okra, tomatoes, onions are added to boost the dish. Makes a good start to the meal, because it is usually eaten as a soup. The other common Filipino classic is Pinakbet (B180), which is fried veggies with pork and shrimp paste. It is indigenous to the northern part of the Philippines and while the flavour of the salted shrimp paste may not be for everyone, it is said to enhance the taste of the veggies.
INSIDER’S TIP
Mabuhay has a bakery and also sells and serves Pan de sal. The logo “Candy Flower” in the restaurant refers to the former shop, which was a florist. There are also a few fake flower bouquets around to prove it. As is a display cabinet with handbags, also left by the former shop and Thai landlord. Mabuhay delivers, though the delivery fee is based on the motorcycle taxi’s fees. The restaurant is available for private parties and outdoor catering.
VALUE AND VERDICT
If you’re not into Filipino cuisine (and we don’t hold it against you), Mabuhay also offers Thai food. Though good value for money as the servings are generous and are family style, the restaurant only attracts Filipino diners. Perhaps, this will soon change.