A TOUR OF TASTE
Where to find the most authentic Vietnamese food in Thailand
The Vietnamese are no strangers to Thailand. Going back 230 years, to the beginning of the Ratanakosin reign, a group of Vietnamese were forced to move into Kanchanaburi province as a military troupe to protect the country from war enemies.
Almost 200 years ago, the Vietnamese moved to stay in many places in Bangkok. Some of them were Catholics living in Sam Sane, or Ban Yuan. Now their descendants are Thai nationals.
Vietnamese food started to gain wide recognition 40 years ago, starting with a reputable Vietnamese restaurant on Sukhothai 3 opposite the Chitralada Royal Villa. It was famous for its Vietnamese meatball wrap ( nam neung), fresh spring rolls, fried spring rolls, fried shrimp with sugar cane, and pho. Later, it moved to Don Muang, and other restaurants opened on Sutthisan Road. By then the food was becoming more popular.
Vietnamese food is best cooked by the Vietnamese, and their main areas are along the Mekong River. To get the authentic taste, people should visit the provinces along the Mekong.
In Ubon Ratchathani, a small wooden restaurant has become the province’s symbol for Vietnamese food. Previously, the restaurant was going to close because the owner wanted to retire. But due to strong demand from clients, his son, who graduated from Kasetsart University in Bangkok, decided to continue the family business. He planted his own vegetables, making it more well-known.
In the evening in the provinces along the Mekong River, there are many night markets, where visitors can find quick and easy Vietnamese food such as steamed rice dumplings served in banana leaf.
I have made a visit in Sakon Nakhon province and found a couple of brother-and-sister teams selling Vietnamese food. They looked unhappy despite good sales. After chatting with them, I found that they have no Thai nationality even though they were born in the country. But the authorities haven’t given Thai nationality to them, putting them in a difficult position when having business with any state officials.
In fact, Vietnamese food has more variety than what we eat right now. What’s served at restaurants and what’s eaten by a family are different. For a special festival, I once was invited to attend the wedding of Uncle Tiew’s daughter. He was among the second generation of Vietnamese in Nakhon Phanom province. Uncle’s Tiew’s father was among a group illegally entering the province for political reasons. The group moved back to Vietnam, but not him.
The groom’s parade carried a banana tree, sugarcane tree and a big smoked pig carried by four people. It is the same size as in Bali, the Philippines and Laos. But in Thailand, they use piglets, not the mature ones.
Another famous dish is spicy minced pork with fresh blood that is full of herbs and spices. It is a special dish for special ceremonies, not found in the restaurants.
Udon Thani province is the first place starting to expand its business by sending Vietnamese food outside the province. A set of Vietnamese meatball wraps is arranged in a box sent through various
One dish not found in conventional restaurants is spicy minced pork with fresh blood that is full of herbs and spices
channels such as plane, train and bus to customers who pay the bill and pick up the food box at an arranged point.
Mukdahan province used to be a closed area for political reasons. At that time, there was the Vietnam War, and migrant Vietnamese would be detained here and not allowed to move anywhere.
Originally, the Vietnamese who stayed in the province were rich merchants. Even though they are all Thai, they have maintained their original lifestyle with trading. In the city, people can find good places to eat Vietnamese noodle soup, Vietnamese meatball wrap, fried egg with baguette, Vietnamese custard, and pho. People in love with Vietnamese food will not be disappointed.
Prachin Buri’s Aranyaprathet district has been another area for Vietnamese in the past. These were the Vietnamese who had evacuated Battambang, Siem Reap and Sisophon province in Cambodia after they were confiscated by the French. Most of them were Catholic farmers. Therefore, the food style is different from provinces along the Mekong River. It is domestic Vietnamese food such as boiled rice with blood.
Vietnamese food long ago won a place as one of Thais’ favourite cuisines.