A SCENT FOR EVERY MOOD
The CEO of Maison Francis Kurkdjian talks about what to expect from his perfumes, now in Thailand
Hailing from Lebanon, Marc Chaya habitually spritzes on perfume as an invisible accessory. “It’s a part of Middle East culture and a way to complement your personality,” said Chaya, CEO of Maison Francis Kurkdjian (MFK), who was recently in Bangkok following the launch of the brand in Thailand last December.
Asians are not yet into spritzing scents, he added, but expanding presence in this part of the world is important to the Paris-based maison, which has introduced over 30 fragrances since its debut in 2009.
Its business success, along with its creativity and savoire faire in fragrance-making, attracted LVMH in acquiring a majority share in MFK since March last year.
Chaya is overwhelmed by the brand’s growth in the luxury-fragrance market within one decade.
“But it actually took us 15 years to be where we are today since we first thought about building our maison in 2003,” he recalled. “To create beautiful things takes time, and it took us time to mature ideas, work on design and imagery, and for Francis Kurkdjian to create a fragrance collection. Eventually, what is made with time is respected by time.”
Chaya first met Kurkdjian at a dinner party and was seated next to the celebrated nose, whose first scent was Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier, launched in 1995.
Kurkdjian’s other compositions include Elizabeth Arden Green Tea, Giorgio Armani Armani Mania, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Cologne Sport, Guerlain Rose Barbare and Burberry My Burberry, to name a few. “People who wear these fragrances probably don’t know who created them. This is a funny thing about the fragrance industry — talented perfumers are hidden behind the curtain,” said Chaya, who has a background in economics and management.
Kurkdjian was looking for someone who knows about business, while Chaya was finding a way to express his creativity. The two of them complemented each other, and became co-creators of the prestigious perfume house.
“My role as co-creator is to be a sounding board, the first person to give feedback about each fragrance,” he said. “Francis Kurkdjian is an artist and genius who has been composing scents for 25 years. His fragrance wardrobe allows wearers to move from one scent to another — from fresh to floral-seductive and so on.”
MFK’s collection ranges from musky-floral-citrus Aqua Universalis and floral-woody A La Rose to amber-woody-floral Baccarat Rouge 540 and spicy-woody-oriental Oud.
Kurkdjian draws inspiration from various sources, such as Paris morning and night ambiences for Petit Matin and Grand Soir; a sirocco wind blowing from the East for APOM (A Part Of Me); and space between the blue of the sky and sea on the horizon for the latest Aqua Celestia Forte.
Baccarat Rouge 540 was created to mark the 250th anniversary of the French crystal house in 2015. It evokes a metamorphosis of a clear crystal mingled with gold powder, brought to fusion at 540C and resulting in a scarlet colour.
“Baccarat Rouge 540 is inspired by crystal-making alchemy requiring air, water, fire and the breath of craftsmen blowing glass to give it its shape,” Chaya said in explaining the scent he wore.
“This morning, I felt like wearing Baccarat Rouge 540. Tomorrow, it may be Gran.d Soir or Aqua Universalis. Every morning, I decide which one to wear based on how I feel.”
What is made with time is respected by time