Exquisite festivities from Italy

Buck the trend and break the mould with an authentic modern Italian style Christmas dinner and/or last repast of 2018

As they say in Italy, “Buon Natale e Felice Anno Nuovo” (Merry Christmas and Happy New Year). And for those who have reservations about roast turkey and can’t countenance Christmas pudding, it’s the sound of salvation. Even in Bangkok, all you have to do is hit Jojo for your celebratory lunch or dinner, and have a wonderful time steering well clear of culinary clichés.

As per tradition the exceptionally young chefs team channelling currently conducted by kindly Executive Chef Chris Miller have created cuisine truly worthy of celebrating Christmas and New Year. Each dish exquisite and, in the tasting menus, immaculately sequenced, the recipes are festive in the sense of being uncompromisingly creative and top quality while channelling seasonal themes subtly and evocatively. The dishes in the 5- and 3-course suggestions are also available individually.

Every meal starts with an amuse bouche, of course, such as Jojo’s surreally tomatoey jelly encasing soft ricotta mouse juxtaposed with the zing of pea and carrots puree blended with mayonnaise.

The 5-course menu starts with a citrussy antipasto carpaccio of fresh Hokkaido scallop wrapped around a fat nugget of blue swimmer crab meat, enhanced with horseradish and avocado cream, pickled cucumber and the crunch of pistachio nuts. It’s addictive. A glass of Feudo Maccari Grillo Sicilia 2015 is the recommended libation if you choose the wine-pairings.

Primo, next, is tender guinea fowl galantine where the bird is deboned and the meat rolled up, then pan-fried and arranged around a reddish stuffing of raisins simmered in tangerine juice. Lean meat complemented with slightly tart fruit, and fresh blueberry, raspberry, cape gooseberry and strawberry. A swirl of dill mustard mayo pulls the dish into another dimension while the fennel salad on top cuts the savoury sweetness of the other ingredients with a natural vegetal contrast. A glass of Zenato, Lugana San Benedetto 2016 is perfectly paired.

And so to primo piatto: fagottini (flat ravioli-like fresh pasta), stuffed with beetroot, caprine aged goat’s cheese, and sprinkled with fresh truffle, with beetroot juice, cheese sauce and a contrasting crunch of Parmesan crisp. Pietradolce, Etna (Nerello Cappucino).

The Secondi — lamb rack — delivers another delightful surprise, this time because the buttery soft lamb has been marinated in garlic, thyme and mustard before searing inside a roasted almond crust. Tweaked Robuchon-formula mash provides creamy contrast while the almost black lamb jus infused with Christmassy thyme and star anise concentrates festive richness delectably. Served with contrastingly natural grilled romanesco (chedi-shaped florets of broccoli-cauliflower hybrid) and baby carrot. Nicolis Saccal Valpolicella Ripasso Classico 2011.

Conclude on a dolce crescendo: fresh vanilla panna cotta inside white chocolate shell complemented with fresh green textured pistachio ice cream with mixed berries compote: neither too plain nor too fussy — just perfect. And all the more so with a tot of Bottega Limoncino, grappa and Sicilian lemons liqueur.

Meanwhile, Jojo’s décor lends itself to all this impeccably, for it too focuses on particularly aesthetic aspects the better to invoke the broad sweep. Between lustrous redwood panelling a gallery of cameos micro-manage perceptions of Italy down to Venetian masked ball figures, St. Marks piazza, the Colosseum, Leonardo da Vinci anatomical drawings, etc., all redolent of everything from the Roman Empire to La Dolce Vita.

Perspex paddle lighting arrangements are strictly Milano arthouse and dramatic metallic gold teardrop chandeliers glow like rough-cut gemstones. Fine abstract sculptures with vaguely tribal undertones contrast with Orient-infused Venetian latticework.

Crystal and steel clatter on glass overlaid to protect the tables’ immaculate marquetry, currently sandwiching festive silver reindeer and snowflakes, as you sit on lowbacked red-velvet upholstered arm chairs or banquettes. Or for more informal eats, a 20-seat bar just inside the street front-like entrance, offers high tables and stools.

Nevertheless, while the décor is several shades of designer, the kitchen is the real keeper of JoJo’s heart. Behind the visible walk-in wine cellar is a hidden also walk-in larder lined not just with celebrated cold cuts but an awesome array of “Protected Designation of Origin” or D.O.P. cheeses. Equally impressive are the extra-virgin olive oils and balsamic vinegars.

And all embellished with The St. Regis signature, absolutely fabulous festive cheer.

Christmas Eve & Christmas Day Set Menu Mon Dec 24, from 6pm-10pm/

Tue Dec 25, from 12pm-3pm.

Experience authentic Italian cuisine, with a choice of three or five decadent courses, for dinner on Christmas Eve and lunch on Christmas Day, with optional wine pairings. Expect appearances from the festive choir!

3-Course Set Menu: B2,800++; B3,800++ including wine pairing. 5-Course Set Menu: B3,800++; B5,500++ including wine pairing.

THE ST. REGIS BANGKOK Ratchadamri Road. Tel. 02 207 7777. Email: fb.bangkok@stregis.com or visit www.stregisbangkok.com. Connect with The St. Regis Bangkok on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. *Advance reservations recommended for all festive events.