Undisturbed by time
In the northern part of Kyoto where the prefecture meets the Sea of Japan lies the fishing village of Ine where you can’t help but feel like a time traveller
Ihad been to Kyoto a couple of times before. However, I had always thought of it as a city, as the former imperial capital of Japan. I didn’t realise that Kyoto as a prefecture has much more to offer than the famous bamboo grove and those popular shrines and temples. Along the northern coast of the prefecture, referred to by some as “Kyoto By The Sea” nestled interesting places not much known among non-Japanese travellers. The fishing village of Ine, with its unique and well-preserved architecture, interested me most. It was the major purpose of my latest visit to the Land of the Rising Sun.
I did some homework before the trip so I had an idea of what to expect in Ine (pronounced “ii-nae”). But when I finally made it there and saw the place with my own eyes, I was stunned. Many of these wooden Japanese structures, called funaya, are over a century old but have undergone renovations and still serve as homes of descendants of the original owners. They were built tightly side by side along the shore of a sheltered bay, reflecting the close-knit nature of the community. The street was meticulously clean. Commercial signs and other modern-day eyesores were nowhere to be seen. The entire village was tranquil, even the water in the bay made no sound. The only noise I heard was the calls of the seagulls that hang around on the waterfront. The atmosphere was magical. It was as if the bus that took me there was actually a time machine.
I stayed overnight in one of the boathouses. The lower floor, which initially was intended as storage for the family’s fishing gear and boat, was converted into a living room and the upper floor a bedroom overlooking a mesmerising view of the bay and other funaya. I learned from the friendly owner that the boathouse is actually part of the fenceless premises. Apart from the waterside structure that serves as a garage for the boat, each household also has a storehouse and the main house where the family spends most of their time. The last is built on the other side of the narrow street that runs through the village. Her family’s home, therefore, was just opposite the boathouse I rented for the night.
When you have a good time, it flies. The morning seemed to arrive so soon. And after another bike ride through the village, I had to catch the bus to a nearby town called Amanohashidate to take the train to my next destination. To my surprise, it turns out Amanohashidate itself has some hidden gems worth exploring. With the limited time I had before my train arrived, I was lucky enough to manage to go up the hill to catch a bird’s-eye view of the coastal town’s legendary sandbar.
The two days I spent in Ine and Amanohashidate was tremendously satisfying. But now I know there are still many other places in this part of Japan that I want to visit. Kyoto, you and I need another rematch.