GUEST STAR
Alain Roux’s latest stint at Le Normandie brings all the elegant extravagance of The Waterside Inn
My recent lunch at Normandie, the subject of this week’s review, might seem all about its highfalutin threeMichelin-star credentials. But putting the global acclaim to one side, it was one of the most delicious, comforting and humblest representations of a loving familial bond a chef could offer.
The man behind the meal was Alain Roux, who had flown into Bangkok from Berkshire in the UK. Roux is the chef-patron of The Waterside Inn, a restaurant founded in 1972 by his Frenchborn uncle, Albert, and dad, Michel.
The Waterside Inn, an elegant hotel and restaurant on the banks of the River Thames, was awarded its first Michelin star in 1974. A second star came in 1977 and the third in 1985. It is the only restaurant in the world, outside of France, to have held three stars for that long period of time. With such credentials, it’s no surprise that the waiting list for a table can be months-long.
So when I learned that Roux would be bringing some of this culinary magic to Bangkok’s own Le Normandie, I jumped at the chance to sample some of it.
Roux is no stranger to the Thai capital, having accompanied his father, the legendary Michel Roux, during his residencies at Le Normandie’s kitchen on several occasions in the past. However, this is Roux the younger’s first time here as solo representative of The Waterside.
At 79, Michel is no longer active in the kitchens. Indeed, Alain took over the family restaurant in 2001, but he says of his father that he “is not getting younger but still as naughty as he’s always been”.
Le Normandie’s exclusive series of lunches and dinners hosted by Chef Alain Roux runs until tomorrow. Prices are 4,900 baht per person for a five-course degustation lunch and 8,900 baht per person for seven-course degustation dinner. Wine pairing options cost 2,400 baht to 4,100 baht per person. Tomorrow’s final wine dinner is 12,900 baht per person.
After being greeted by the ever-lovely Le Normandie staff, my lunch began with a wonderful selection of trio canapés. These came in the shape of a super light, billowing and fragrant gougère choux pastry infused with Gruyère cheese; a warm and crusty fish cake with scrumptious soft filling and saffron emulsion topping; and a heavenly creamy foie gras parfait with crisp chocolate shell and pistachio.
A neat serving of sea bass and octopus ceviche followed. In fine but supple slices, the seafood was marinated with passion fruit juice for a refreshing sweet and sour taste, while a small helping of frisée and radicchio salad on the side provided bracing balance to the delicate dish.
The third course was represented by Scottish salmon fillet. The fish, poached in aromatic stock and served on a bed of rice pilaf, was bright, supple and naturally sweet, and complemented deliciously by a warm egg mimosa dressing, fine strings of French bean, pak choi and silky cauliflower puree.
For the main course, there was a choice of pan-roasted beef tournedos “zingara” style or the equally marvellous meunièrecooked turbot fillet with croutons and grape emulsion.
The beef dish presented a medallion of Australian wagyu tenderloin, dressed with a creamy concoction of reduced beef jus, mushroom, truffle and beef tongue, on a bed of Madeira sauce.
The steak was impeccably cooked to exhibit its leanness, tenderness and flavoursome qualities, and complemented nicely by seared baby onions, potato and broad beans.
The fish dish, meanwhile, was a superb rendering of a fillet of brown butter-seared Brittany turbot. Enhancing the firm, moist and delicate fish meat were French beans, fresh grapes, roasted almonds, croutons and delicious dollops of green pea purée, almond puree and grape emulsion.
The meal was topped off in style with a platter of three bitesized delicacies dubbed “Desserts Of Alain Roux”.
Roux, a Master Pâtissier in the International Association Relais Desserts, is regarded as one of the best pastry chefs in the world. Hence, his pistachio crème brûlée, smoked Jivara chocolate mousse and whiskey cream and lemon meringue tart proved beyond criticism.
It might sound clichéd but as I was enjoying a meal that truly lived up to the Roux legacy, I felt the love of a son who never lets his father down.
Complementing our lunch were Sancerre, Domaine du Pré Semelé, Loire 2017; Saint-Véran, Terroirs Davaye, Maison Verget, Bourgogne 2017; Château Picard, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux 2016; and Miraval, Côtes de Provence Blanc,
Provence 2015. For the Saturday wine dinner, expect to find dishes such as salmon rillettes with green peppercorns on crouton; beef tartare on gaufrette potato and quail egg; terrine of foie gras and confit chicken with truffle; lightly smoked scallop with oscietra caviar; roasted turbot with matignon of vegetable and red prawn; and roasted loin of venison in a pastry crust with Hermitage wine sauce.
The food will be paired with Louis Roederer Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Brut N.V.; Gewürztraminer Vendanges Tardives, Turckheim, Zind Humbrecht, Alsace 2015; Sancerre, Domaine Vacheron, Loire 2018; Condrieu, La Bonnette, René Rostaing, Rhône 2015; Château Lynch Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux 2010; and La Forge de Tart, Clos de Tart, Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru, Bourgogne 2011.
Seats are limited. Reservations are highly recommended.