WINE ME DINE ME
L’Oliva is our new favourite hidden gem for Italian fare.
L’OLIVA RISTORANTE ITALIAN & WINE BAR
CLASSIC ITALIAN & TRADITIONAL ABRUZZESE Sukhumvit 36, Lane 2 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11pm
(All day dining for Saturday and Sunday) Closed on Tuesday
094-758-9868 or email lolivabkk@gmail.com
THE SETTING
It is not often one finds an oasis of sorts in the midst of high-rises, especially around hipsterville Thong Lor. Yet, nestled on Sukhumvit 36, a short walk from BTS Thong Lor, lies a new gem.
L’Oliva is Bangkok’s newest two-storey Italian eatery, complete with an atrium, bar and garden. Yes, this includes ample parking, fear not. Ideal for lazy lunches, sundowners on the lawn or outdoor dinners, weather and smog permitting, L’Oliva offers a taste of southern Italy, with an ambience to match.
Nicolono Pasquini, in partnership with Sutasanee Karnasuta, brings his passion for the Abruzzo region, where he was born and bred, in the form of traditional produce and wine, rustic homemade pasta, pizza and salads to the tables.
THE MENU
The entrance, flanked by two olive trees, brought by Pasquini from Italy, welcomes you. Though don’t fuss around too much with the pretty exteriors (read: stop with the IG poses already) before your meal. Concentrate on what you’re here for — the food — and allow restaurant manager Manuel Miele to treat you to the Italian art of hospitality.
Nothing says welcome more than a platter of olives, nuts and freshly baked bread, complete with house-infused olive oil. The giant olives, which are served when in season, are from Abruzzo, which also produces Italy’s best EVO. #funfact
Start off with the Insalata di frutta rucola e burrata (B450), which is mix of wild-locally grown rocket (from the family farm in Khao Yai), strawberries and black grapes, nuts, beetroot wedges and creamy burrata from Italy. I do love salad that has been dressed well and this one is drizzled with premium Modena balsamic. Is there any other? Though Thai rocket is a tad less peppery than Italian.
A favourite appetiser is the Tentacoli di polpo e mousse allo zafferano (B650) or grilled octopus tentacles, saffron cream, marinated tomatoes and mushrooms. I love octopus and this was well-cooked, firm and tender. You’d expect the saffron cream to be heavy but this one is plate-licking worthy. Guilty! The potato and heirloom tomatoes added texture and colour to the plate, though there is nothing like octopus and saffron. Such a good combo!
Leisurely meals at L’Oliva do require a taste of everything on offer and hence the pizza won’t disappoint. Made in the Neapolitan-style, which is a thin and soft crust, the hot fav is the Mortadella e pistacchio (B440). It is easy to taste why. It is a white pizza with fresh Fiordilatte cheese mixed with crumbed pistachios, which is used as the sauce. On top is zucchini (that’s courgette to the British) cream, mortadella, mascarpone and more pistachio. Who doesn’t love a good mix of cheese and cream? Garnished with rocket, it is hard to stop stuffing your face with this. I would know, I did try… hard. A warning to those who don’t eat pizza crust, you’ll be making a terrible mistake if you stick to your old ways.
Before you order the pasta or risotto, do note that L’Oliva serves theirs in true Italian-style: “al-dente”. If this is not your preferred choice, do feel free to ask it to be made to your liking.
The Chitarra al ragù abruzzese (ragù alle tre carni) (B420) is the epitome of Abruzzo. Lamb ragu has been a staple in the region where farmers have raised sheep for centuries. But why have only one meat when you can have three? L’Oliva’s ragu combines veal, lamb and pork to make it much more hearty and rich with braised shreds of meat. Served in the traditional way, with Abruzzo pasta, which is rolled and hand-cut on a chitarra, a wooden block strung like a guitar that cuts the
dough into little square threads, the dish is served with dried pepperoncini and lots of shredded Parmigiano. A must have!
It is truffle season and hot on the trail is Bangkok, so the next dish pays homage to the black truffle. Chitarrina porcini e tartufo (B790) is homemade spaghetti with porcini, sausage and black truffle. The pasta is not overly sauced and has a light mushroom cream sauce over it, letting you savour the truffle.
Also in season and another must try is the Gamberi rossi ed asparagi bianchi (B890). Grilled red carabineros prawns from Spain are beautifully paired with the season’s first white asparagus. The asparagus from Peru is pan-seared with sprigs of rosemary. Though mine were a tad overdone. Accompanied by a shellfish stock sauce, which needs to be drunk straight out of the serving dish. It is divine, as were the prawns. Don’t forget to suck the prawn head as that’s where the magic happens.
To finish off the meal in true Italian style and available only until the month-end is the traditional Italian Christmas sweetbread Panettone (B180). A huge candied slice of it is served in layers and between each layer lies mascarpone, nutella, pistachio crumble and a thick vanilla custard. This is what filled the Roman Empire during the winter and should more than cater to your sweet tooth.
The restaurant has a sizeable collection of wines, mostly from Italy, and you’re sure to never suffer from a dry mouth.
INSIDER’S TIPS
If the paintings on the walls catch your eye, they are by Pasquini’s wife. Do try and look up from your plate (or your phone) to notice the light fixtures above each table, which are traditional ceramic plates from Abruzzo.
The white asparagus and truffle menu are only available for a month or until the season lasts. Look for the small blackboards around the restaurant, which list classic pasta dishes like amatriciana, bolognese and carbonara, and daily specials like foie gras and oysters for a bit of indulgence. L’Oliva infuses its own olive oils, so ask for a house-made “olive oil flight” for tasting.
The atrium houses a chef’s table, complete with cooking station, and can be used for fun pasta-making classes or private dinners. The second floor is also used for events and private dining, and has a balcony for a bit of high-rise gazing.
Caffe Olives is attached to the restaurant and brings Italian café culture to Bangkok. (Read our review here: bit.ly/2RyThhx).
VALUE AND VERDICT
Heartwarming, rustic, satisfying, describes L’Oliva best. The only thing that makes it better is sharing it all with family and friends. J