Bangkok Post

A WINNING MENU!

- STORY NIANNE-LYNN HENDRICKS

It is rare that one gets to taste the winning menu from Iron Chef Thailand. However, 2020 couldn’t have started better for Iron Chef Thailand winner chef Rick Dingen and you! Madison Steakhouse at the Anantara Siam Bangkok is serving Dutch chef Dingen’s ‘Secret Ingredient’ dinner, his winning menu of five courses, until Feb 29. Chef Dingen defeated chef Natawoot “Off” Thammaphan, who won the title of Iron Chef Thailand in 2019, and prevailed over 15 talented contestant­s from across the country. Chef Dingen’s refined menu uses the same ingredient­s as on the show; his mystery box contained chicken liver.

The five-course dinner starts off with Chicken liver panna cotta, served with gold dust, cherry sorbet, pickled beetroot and beet purée. This is art on a plate and you’re almost too afraid to tuck into it. My favourite dish on this menu, by far, the panna cotta is put into a mould and liquid nitrogen is poured over it so it sets. The tart cherry sorbet works well with the richness on the plate.

Chicken liver pate and scallop is served with black garlic gel, hazelnut for crunch and shaved cauliflowe­r. Cauliflowe­r and hazelnuts are a classic combinatio­n with scallops, and chef Dingen doesn’t fuss around too much with it. A decadent beurre noisette accompanie­s the pate and scallop, with back garlic for a punch. The Glazed chicken liver in the next dish is cooked medium rare and coated in a thyme gel. A balsamic reduction is slathered over the livers and balsamic-braised pearl onions. The baby pak choi is almost desperatel­y needed on this plate to cut through the richness of it; perhaps a dish too rich for the average palate.

The main course is Seared chicken liver with free-range chicken. The medium rare liver is served with cannelloni of cabbage stuffed with minced liver chimichurr­i and thin slivers of sous vide chicken, garnished with piccalilli. A chicken sauce is poured over.

After 40 minutes, a surprise ingredient was introduced, 20 minutes before the cooking deadline. For chef Rick, that surprise was wonton sheets, which only improved his game.

“I tried baking them at first but the oven didn’t work. So I ended up frying them, because we don’t have a lot of time on the show. You have to think fast,” he said. Now, back in his kitchen with more time to experiment he has refined his winning dessert of Crispy wonton with citrus, vanilla and tarragon. Vanilla ice cream is served with vanilla foam, surrounded with orange segments served with orange sauce with tarragon and yuzu gelée.

“Since I don’t like frying ingredient­s, I reworked the wonton sheets and baked them. I really like sour and fresh ingredient­s,” said the chef. The crispy wonton sheets add texture to the dish.

If you’re one of those people who think chicken liver is the poor cousin of foie gras, chef Dingen will not only prove you wrong, he will leave you salivating for more... though he says his next menu will be devoid of any chicken livers!

6-10.30pm / Madison Steakhouse, Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, Ratchadamr­i Road / Priced at B1,850++ for five-course set menu, Wine pairing B1,000++ .

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