NUOVO ITALIANO

With the departure of chef Andrea Buson, Alessio Banchero has stepped in to lead one of Bangkok’s long-established Italian restaurants, Biscotti, at the Anantara Siam Bangkok.

Its open kitchen busts out dishes that lean towards Italian classics, with all-time signatures like Focaccia mascarpone with truffle oil (B650), Ravioli ossobuco with black truffle sauce, (B900) and Tiramisu (B680) drawing return patrons. While these dishes remain on the menu, chef Banchero has introduced a few more.

Mortadella e pistacchi pizza (B670), generously brushed with pistachio pesto and topped with thin sheets of mortadella sprinkled with pistachio powder. Unlike a tomato-based pizza that hits you almost instantly with a fruity zing, this pesto-based pie offers just a light hint of basil and quiet saltiness from the cured meat. The Amarone wine risotto with seared bone marrow (B830) should be the reason for everyone to dine here. The acquarello rice cooked in an Amarone red wine has a perfectly firm bite and pairs nicely with the wobbly, rich cubes of bone marrow. The Tasmanian salmon with pink peppercorn brandy sauce (B1,250), is delicious. The dish originates from northern Italy, near the city of Novara. It consists of a crispy, skin-on salmon fillet that is encrusted in whole peppercorns and a rich sauce made of heavy cream, pink peppercorns and brandy.

I also enjoyed the Duck breast sous vide (B990), which was tender and went well with the berry-red wine reduction and sweet pumpkin puree. Another treat was the classic Fritto misto (B790). Calamari, prawns, salmon fillet and long strips of zucchini and carrot are dusted in semolina flour before being deepfried. It is served with aioli.

Originally from Genova, chef Banchero continues Biscotti’s legacy of serving hearty Italian fare, but incorporates more northern Italian cuisine. Diners will notice more seafood, duck and pesto, the centre pieces of that region’s recipes.

Beside the new items, this 90s establishment remains untouched. Make sure to book well ahead and secure a table close to the open kitchen, so that you can watch the chefs.

Biscotti, Anantara Siam Bangkok, Ratchadamri Road / Open daily noon2.30pm, 5-9pm / Call 02-126-8866 / Visit www.biscottibangkok.com.