Bangkok Post

Noma again voted best restaurant in the world

- KATE KRADER

The best restaurant in the world is Noma. Once again. It has won the award four times in the past.

The world’s most famous restaurant was number two on the 2019 list, and achieved the 2021 ranking although it spent almost as much time in 2020 operating as an outdoor burger joint as it did a fine dining restaurant.

Noma re-opened on June 1, with a menu of summery, nature-evoking dishes like stuffed zucchini with bee larvae. In September, it was also awarded 3 Michelin stars for the first time.

It was a good year to be a Copenhagen restaurant: The No. 2 on the list was Geranium in Copenhagen, which serves creative Scandinavi­an food from a football stadium; grilling specialist­s Asador Extebarri in Spain were No. 3.

And one of the highest new entries on the list is Alchemist in Copenhagen, which appeared at No. 58. The restaurant features 50 multi-sensory courses for a meal that promises to stretch a minimum of four hours.

“Please be aware that Alchemist might not be the right choice for an evening of business discussion­s or that nervous first date,” states the website.

Last year’s winner, Mirazur in the south of France, was not eligible to win again. Previous winners now live in a ‘Best of the Best’ category, including the original Noma, which was set in a different location and had a different menu format, as well as Osteria Francescan­a, the fantastica­l Italian restaurant in Modena, which has won twice.

Another former winner not eligible this year is Eleven Madison Park in New York, although it has implemente­d a much hyped vegan menu.

This year’s rankings were compiled by combining votes cast in January 2020, before most of the world had been effected by Covid-19, and a March 2021 “recasting.’’

Voters could update their 2020 selections “based only on restaurant experience­s in their own region in the 14 months since the previous voting round, reflecting the increased importance of local dining,” said 50 Best director of content William Drew, in an email.

The March votes were done where possible [to reflect] contempora­ry, local updates. Which helps explain why the list looks like one partially frozen in prepandemi­c time.

Voters paid no attention to innovation­s like the fancy restaurant­s’ meal kits that were popular in the Uninted States and London during lockdown.

“The list relates directly to in-restaurant experience­s,” Drew said.

Still, the pandemic impacted the list. One of the world’s top chefs, Albert Adria, was forced to close his Barcelona restaurant Tickets earlier this year because of the city’s restrictio­ns; in 2019, it held the number 20 spot.

Another notable departure from the top 20 is Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee in Paris, which closed this year for undisclose­d reasons after ranking 16 in 2019.

The World’s 50 Best Restaurant­s list has been around since 2002, when it appeared in the UK magazine Restaurant.

It is organised and compiled by William Reed Business Media. It is created from the votes of over 1,000 restaurate­urs, chefs and food writers as well as that amorphous group known as “foodies.’’

 ?? REUTERS ?? A part of the Noma restaurant run by Chef Rene Redzepi is seen through a window in Copenhagen in this file photo.
REUTERS A part of the Noma restaurant run by Chef Rene Redzepi is seen through a window in Copenhagen in this file photo.

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