Squid Game sweets cause a sensation
Simple, sweet, and fictionally fatal: the stallholder who makes the traditional South Korean children’s treat featured in the global cultural phenomenon Squid Game — a snack once associated with postwar poverty — has hit a real-life jackpot.
The Netflix smash hit series features a group of marginalised and deeply indebted Koreans, who compete in children’s games for the chance to win 45.6 billion won (US$38 million), with lethal consequences.
In one particular challenge, the contestants try to cut out shapes including a star and an umbrella from a crisp sugar candy called a dalgona, without it cracking. Those who fail are killed.
The life-or-death game was inspired by director Hwang Dong-hyuk’s experience growing up in Seoul in the 1970s. Back then, though, the prize for a child who successfully removed the shape was another free dalgona.
Hwang was always determined to win an extra treat and remembers employing multiple tactics, including licking the candy to loosen the shape and using a needle heated over briquettes — techniques repeated in the show’s nail-biting challenge scene.
“I would make the dalgona maker extremely perplexed by succeeding on the most difficult shape of umbrella,” the director recently said in a YouTube video.
But the candy was a difficult prop to manage on set as it softens easily, so Hwang and artistic director Chae Kyung-sun hired “dalgona experts” to have the candy freshly made on location.
Those specialists were Lim Changjoo and his wife Jung Jung-soon, who produced between 300 and 400 pieces over three days of filming.
Now, their humble roadside stall in Seoul’s theatre district — little more than an umbrella, an awning and their equipment — is one of the hottest spots in the South Korean capital.
Orders for the 2,000-won ($1.70) sweets start piling up as soon as it opens, and before long, customers face six-hour waits, with some giving up and leaving empty-handed.
In about 90 seconds, Lim melts an individual portion of sugar above a burner, before adding baking soda, flattening it into a circle, and punching it with the customer’s preferred shape.
He offers a wider range of choices than the four forms in the show — and has a newly added “N” for Netflix.
Historians say dalgona first emerged in the 1960s when the South was still assailed by poverty while desserts — such as ice cream or chocolates — were not widely available and prohibitively expensive.
Very sweet, with hints of nuts and bitterness, the candy was hugely popular, with many vendors setting up their stalls near schools.
Lim and Jung started their stall with 30,000 won after closing their tailoring business around the time of the 1997 Asian financial crisis.
“I never imagined it would become this popular,” Lim told AFP of the series, adding that his life has now become “super hectic”.
“Of course, I’m happy because my business is doing well and how dalgona has become famous in other countries,” he added. “I hope they make and eat their own dalgonas.”