Super Stupas

The Grand Palace/wat Pho

are unmissable, but these joints are sacred so don’t wear your mink Kylies or have bare shoulders. Wear easily-removed kicks as they’ll be on and off all damn day. Here’s the best way to do it. Start 9.30am latest. Take a ferry from Tha Oriental, the shared public/ private pier (by BTS Saphan Taksin, near Mandarin Oriental (see Accom.)), skip onboard, pay your six baht and enjoy the fabulous Chao Phraya. Alight at Tha Chang Pier and follow the crowds to the Grand Palace. Get an audio guide and prepare to marvel. It really is stupa-endous. Tie it in with a visit to the Museum of Textiles (see below). Whip yourself into a cab and cruise on down around the block to (which, if you’re facing the river, is to the left of the Grand Palace). Stillies off and have a gander at the stunning Reclining Buddha. If you can stand the heat, stroll through to the Laura Ashley-meets-gaudí chedi courtyard next door. Parched? Walk back towards the river, turn left into Maharat Rd and take a right at the next little crossroad to find Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong. Pop into boutique bunny Arun Residence for sundowners with breathtaking Wat Arun and river views at aerie boho hangout Amorosa (see Bars). Grand Palace 8.30am-3.30pm (ticket office shuts 12-1pm. Typical!)