EIGHTIES REMIX
CEO Jean Christophe Babin on the new Wild Pop collection and why he loves the 1980s
How important are the 1980s to Bulgari?
The art of Bulgari as we know today is a style that was born decades ago — it stems from the bold Roman architecture and the daring colour combinations that are also linked to Rome. However it was in the 1970s and 1980s that Nicola Bulgari (who is still the president of our board), driven by work and passion, went to New York. That was during the pop art movement and he became acquainted with artists such as Andy Warhol, who became one of his best friends. Nicola’s time in New York was a greater influence to Bulgari than any other luxury brand at that time — it was why we incorporated elements of street art and pop art into our design language. (It’s also why we had a special capsule collection for the US to celebrate the reopening of our Fifth Avenue flagship in New York last year.) The new Wild Pop collection is as much an evolution of how we were inspired by the wild 80s, as it is a modern expression of pop art.
the collection seeks to Highlight Bulgari’s audacious design aesthetic, which is aligned with the daring and risk-taking mood of the 1980s. How does Bulgari continue to push the Boundaries of High jewellery making?
We’ve always been known as the masters of the cabochon cut but we continue to invent new cuts to push the technical boundaries. Four years ago, we developed the takti cut which was inspired by India, and last year in the Festa collection we introduced the balloon cut which was inspired by parties. This year, we’re playing with geometry and symbols, such as incorporating synthesisers and freedom flowers into our jewellery. This allows us to experiment with new ways of combining different gemstones. In terms of jewellery construction, the Ruby Spring necklace is a major progress in terms of goldsmithing, construction and articulation. It’s a daring design and one of the first few examples of “technical” high jewellery, something we hardly talk about but it contributes very much to the pleasure of wearing high jewellery.
which pieces in the collection resonate most with you?
The Ruby Spring necklace because it’s whimsical and really something you’ve never seen before, yet at the same time, it’s logical. We are the master of the Tubogas technique which is also a spring. But while the Tubogas is a closed technique, the Ruby Spring is more openworked so it sits gracefully on the neck. The goldsmithing combined with the use of high-quality rubies and diamonds makes this piece truly exceptional. I also like the Queen of Pop necklace: It shows off a very important sapphire and also highlights Bulgari’s design creativity. The 24.80ct sapphire is one of the most beautiful sapphires we have ever used and it’s wonderful to celebrate it in the context of pop art.
what was it like for you during the 1980s?
After completing my military service, in the true spirit of the roaring 80s, I backpacked and travelled. I was young, curious and daring then so I left Europe with a plane ticket, a few dollars in my pocket and explored Asia. I loved mountaineering so I did several tracks in India, Southeast Asia and China. Getting to know the different cultures, arts, philosophies and religions I’d only read about contributed to the way I perceive beauty and life. I made all the pilgrimages you can imagine, from Phewa Lake to Goa beach, being immersed in local culture, and listening to Pink Floyd on my Walkman.