A TWIST ON TRADITION
Defined by a juxtaposition of curves and sculptural twists, Maillon de CARTIER bends the rules when it comes to reimagining the classic chain-link bracelet
LONG BEFORE BECOMING a significant force in the watchmaking world, the house of Cartier had established itself as one of the leading makers of fine jewellery in the 20th century. As a result, the maison’s luxury timepieces have always been imbued with an exquisite beauty that only the skilled hand of a fine jeweller can impart. Today, with the unveiling of a new series of women’s wristwatches, Maillon de Cartier, that historic tradition continues, albeit with a modern twist.
The term maillon, French for “link”, is a familiar design motif that resides in the watchmaking repertoire of the house, communicated most recently in Panthère de Cartier’s family of rings, bracelets, and necklaces, characterised in part by the use of tightly interlocking links. However, the links on the bracelet of the new Maillon de Cartier series are instantly identifiable as something unique. Here, the oblong links are offset, aligned on the bias by Cartier. It’s a design element that plays on classic codes while reinventing for contemporary attitudes.this diagonal element likewise echoes the distinctive shape of the asymmetrical bezel and transforms the piece into a unified whole.
“We wanted to deconstruct the bracelet and transcend its design through a volume approach,” explains Marie-laure Cérède, Cartier’s timepieces creation director. Indeed, the volume that the artisans and craftsmen in the maison’s watchmaking studios have achieved is at once tangible, angular and dense, but still exceedingly opulent and able to move with an ultra-feminine grace that will give the wearer a giddy thrill when sporting this bedazzling bauble.
The rhythmic geometry created by the torsion gives the Maillon its radical spirit, in which the case and the links intertwine themselves in one fluid graphic motion.the case itself measures 16mm by 17mm, yet stands a mere 6.8mm, and it’s the slimness of this housing that accentuates and emphasises the sculptural quality of the watch, with the mirror-polished faceted casing seamlessly integrating into the bracelet’s overall shape.
The dial, which is framed by a dynamic yet unconventional hexagonal bezel, is easily recognisable as classic Cartier, with most of the pieces in the series boasting a silvered finish, blued steel sword hands for the hours and minutes, and stylised Roman numerals. Interestingly, due to the smallish size of the dial, the brand’s “secret signature” is not incorporated within the VII, as is the normal tradition.
The dials are also inlaid to echo the sequencing of the stones set in the links. The choice of stones in the blue lacquer and tsavorite version adds to the kinetic relief of the watch, and this graphic effect and contrast is pursued further in the limited-edition yellow gold and diamond version, with its black lacquer beveled links.
The series as a whole consists of six references, each powered by quartz movement and each more ravishingly embellished than the one before it. The most demure in the Maillon de Cartier set is the 18k yellow gold version, designed without precious stones but adorned with a single sapphire cabochon on the crown. Slightly more elaborate are the 18k pink gold and the 18k white gold models, which are both rimmed with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.54ct) on the bezel, and feature a brilliant-cut diamond (0.07ct) set on the crown.
The next two timepieces in the collection have both their bracelets and their bezels adorned with a myriad of sparkling gems. The 18k pink gold variation incorporates 400 brilliant-cut diamonds (8.3ct) and is garnished with a single brilliant-cut diamond (0.07ct) on its crown. Somewhat more audacious is the 18k white gold timepiece, which is set with 486 brilliant-cut diamonds (8.64ct), and includes a watchface paved with diamonds – no need for numerals on this one – plus an additional diamond (0.07ct) set majestically on the crown.
Of course, the pièce de résistance of this outstanding collection is conceived in beautiful 18k yellow gold.this version immediately stands out from the rest due to its dramatic, numberless black lacquered onyx dial, which in turn highlights its distinctive, shiny gold hour and minute hands. There are a total of 580 brilliant-cut diamonds (9.33ct) adorning the bracelet and bezel, with an extra brilliant-cut diamond (0.07ct) set on the crown. This jaw-dropping work of art is the sole limited edition and numbered model within the Maillon de Cartier set, and it consists of just 50 individual pieces. No doubt this particular model is destined to become the treasured possession of any woman lucky enough to secure one of these exquisitely crafted timepieces.
cartier.com