LUXE STAYS
Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza, who built a pedestrian passageway that links to central Baixa.
Just around the corner is Cervejaria Trindade, Portugal’s oldest brewery that was converted from a 13th-century monastery in 1834. Here, the original tile art, Gothic motifs and high ceilings transport one back to the early 19th century. Secure a reservation for dinner on Wednesday nights (8–11pm), and enjoy Fado, a traditional and expressive lyrical musical performance.
Enjoy panoramic views of Baixa district from Elevador de Santa Justa, a lift in the city centre built in 1902 to help pedestrians navigate the hilly terrain. Designed by engineer Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, who was a protégé of Gustav Eiffel, it is made of cast iron bearing filigree and Neogothic finishes – a fine example of Industrial Revolution-era architecture. By contrast, the completed-in-1998 Gare do Oriente bus and metro interchange (Avenida Dom João II) by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava looks strikingly modern in spite of Gothic vault details in its large canopy.
UNIQUE ARTISTRY AND INGENUITY
The Portuguese are humble about their diverse and extensive art, literature and design. Definitely worth a visit is MUDE, the Museum of Design and Fashion housed in a former Banco Nacional Ultramarino building. It has an extensive collection of haute couture from the 20th to 21st centuries, in addition to furniture, objects and industrial design from Portugal and the rest of the world.
Says Barbara Cuintho, Director of MUDE: “Lisbon is evolving into a kind of new Berlin with a Buenos Aires spirit. It’s very important to maintain our authenticity and culture, striking a balance between catering to tourists and locals, and avoiding gentrification.”
The Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon is an institution and the address to stay in town. It also holds its own as an art gallery with a sizeable collection of prized Portuguese art. Artworks from two of Portugal’s most prominent artists are located in the lobby – stunning tapestries and a marble mural by Almada Negreiros, and oil paintings by Carlos Botelho. The hotel also offers street art tours in a vintage sidecar, heading off the beaten path with a local art expert. Tour highlights include large-scale murals by world-renowned Portuguese street artist Vhils and Brazilian artist Nunca.
Those who are seeking unique collectibles should take a 20-minute drive outside of Lisbon to Monte Estoril to visit the studio of local artist Mariana Lima (tel: (+351) 91220 2433). She makes colourful, ethereal statues of saints and Mother Mary in various sizes, starting at 350€ for 45cm. “I started creating new patterns and endless forms using flowers, crockery birds, toys, Legos, marbles or any other object my imagination and intuition would come up with. My saints embody good feelings that spread a sense of hope, protection and peaceful happiness to everyone around them,” she says.
FEASTS FOR ALL PALATES CASA FORTUNATO
This century-old converted Lisbon townhouse is part of the new trend of “Champêtre-chic” properties combining design-luxe with rustic countryside charm. The pet project of Filipa and António Fortunato, whose family lives on-site, this hotel flaunts nine rooms, all decked out in an eclectic selection of wallpapers, designer furniture, and fixtures.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RITZ LISBON
The hotel’s interiors are graced with over 40,000sqm of rare and beautiful marble, with an impressive gallery displaying works of this century’s renowned Portuguese artists.
You can eat and drink very well in Lisbon for a song. Join the well-heeled locals at Prado, the current Lisbonite favourite.
Opened in 2017 by Chef
António Galapito, a protege of London-based Michelinstarred Portuguese chef Nuno
Mendes, the minimalist restaurant features a seasonal farm-to-table menu, while the wine list invites diners on an interesting discovery of organic wines and spans the wine regions of Portugal.
Renowned Chef José Avillez’s two Michelin-starred restaurant Belcanto is modern and elegant. Order a la carte or go with the degustation, but make sure to try the signature “golden goose” egg dish. His casual outpost Bairro do Avillez is a delight, with hearty dishes of seafood as the main feature – the shrimps and garlic clams are musts.
Pick up some canned sardines and mackerel at petiscaria Miss Can, and enjoy a snack and an ice-cold pint. The Soares Ribeiro family owns two fish canneries dating back to 1911, and two of the founder’s grandchildren have decided to revive the business with a contemporary twist. Expect fun packaging featuring a modern mermaid mascot Miss Can, but the original canning recipes from a century ago.
As one of Western Europe’s oldest cities, Lisbon is possibly also one of Europe’s most underrated with plenty to offer. As my tour guide Patricia Canejo of Singulartrips puts it: “Lisbon is extremely cosmopolitan and a great creative hub. It has managed to integrate new design, fashion and architecture into our culture, without copying others but giving it an identity of our own.”
VERRIDE PALÁCIO DE SANTA CATARINA
This elegant restored 18th-century townhouse in the heart of Lisbon has 19 rooms and suites with classy modern interior decor and a rooftop bar offering picturesque 360-degree views of the city and coast line.