Dapper Dreams
For over two decades, EMPORIO ARMANI has redefined the Italian sartorial tradition and modernised suiting with a sporty touch. For the Autumn-winter 2020-2021 collection, the brand revisits iconic dandyism through forms and fabrics that celebrate the timelessness of relaxed elegance, writes mila wenin
No one does “classic with a twist” like Emporio Armani. The “classic” was defined by the designer and entrepreneur Signor Armani himself, and his iconic Giorgio Armani brand, while the “twist” came in 1981 – not just naturally, but also practically – once the diversion line Emporio Armani was born.
In the same spirit as its parent brand, Emporio Armani
has through the years established itself as a go-to label for modern men in search of wardrobe staples that can be worn for many years to come, and not trendy pieces that come and go. But as trends always cycle back to classics eventually, EA men never really go out of style – especially this season.
Perhaps this return to the classics is a reaction to the meteoric rise of streetwear during the past few years, or maybe even a sense of post-pandemic dread that no longer tolerates trendy, disposable fashion. Either way, designers are looking to classics for the Autumn-winter 2020-2021 season, but to say that Emporio Armani is only about the classics doesn’t do the brand justice.
Emporio Armani is always evolving – experimenting with forms and fabrics, as well as ideas and innovation. The EA man is always dressed impeccably, but underneath that impeccable façade lies a tendency to be playful and active. They may have a wardrobe that lasts a lifetime, but they live for the moment of every present day.
The brand stays true to this sensibility in the new collection, but the celebration of classicism is strengthened through the conceptual theme ‘The Man in the Magnifying Glass’. What is magnified is classic men’s fabrics such as chevrons, herringbone, diagonal stripes, and glen plaid. So, where’s the twist? In the augmented proportion that transforms classic suiting into a sporty look.
The brand may look at traditional designs as a starting point, but they are reimagined from a modern point of view. A dark colour palette defines the collection, from grey and
onyx to lacquer red, but there’s also an element of vintage – almost Victorian – but it’s the kind of vintage that comes with an unmistakably sporty vibe. Think parkas in technical fabrics, and oversized proportions that reflect a laid-back sensibility.
The women’s collection, meanwhile, continues to tread the fine line between feminine and masculine styles. Masculine tailoring and fluid pantsuits dominate the collection, all in loose, relaxed and lean silhouettes, paired with flowing jackets and high-buttoned blazers. The dandy style is portrayed through white shirts with a cravat or jabot around the neck. The masculinity of houndstooth and checks are balanced with laces and velvet, or even ruffles, knit bows, and laces. It’s all very cool and impeccable, but with an air of playfulness and romance too.