WATCH REPORT 2021

The first quarter of 2021 heralds a renewed confidence in the world of horology, with brands flexing their versatility through a wide range of novelties that span accessible favourites to signature complications. Feast your eyes on the new releases in thi

ROLEX

The Crown’s 2021 novelties include refreshments to the Oyster Perpetual Explorer range, some over-the-top bejewelled additions to the Day-date 36 and Lady-datejust collections as well as a number of striking new dial designs for the Datejust 36 and the ever-expanding Day-date 36.

The latter line, which now includes a stunning version with a diamond-set bezel and Eisenkiesel dial on a President bracelet, really does seem to be shaping up as the watch for all seasons and reasons.

However, the Rolexes that are catching our eye this year are the trio of Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytonas, each with a unique dial that’s been sliced from a chunk of meteorite. The new 40mm models are available with a whitegold case, monobloc Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic and a super-comfy and rather discreet Oysterflex bracelet; with a yellow-gold case, bezel and bracelet; or with a case, bezel and bracelet in Everose gold.

Aside from the dials (which also feature contrasting black subdials), the new references are little changed from existing models: the Superlative Chronometer Certified automatic calibre 4130 beats at 4Hz for a power reserve of 72 hours and claims an accuracy of +2/-2 seconds a day.

As to which of these Rolexes we’d actually chose for ourselves (were we, of course, chummy enough with our local Rolex dealer to elbow our way to the front of a very long queue), that’s tough. The meteorite looks especially cool against the Cerachrom bezel, but we reckon the contrast between the grained rock surface and yellow-gold case and markers is so fabulous that we might just go for that one.

CARTIER

The Cloche de Cartier watch is the fifth creation under the Cartier’s Privé Collection, which revives the maison’s historical models through limited editions. Named after the cloche or bell shape because its outline resembles that of a service bell found at counters when placed horizontally, the first Cartier timepiece to incorporate the quirky silhouette was a 1920 broochwatch with diamonds and onyx.

Although it has been in Cartier’s repertoire for decades, it has only been produced in small quantities, with the last relaunch being in 2007. It still flaunts a dial that is rotated 90º clockwise from the conventional position, so the wearer can read the time by extending the arm, instead of bringing the wrist towards him/her.

Another unexpected feature of the watch is its ability to be read like a clock when placed upright on a nightstand or table. The rail track and hour markings are adapted to the dial’s asymmetrical shape and the crown is set with a cabochon gem. Two new calibres were made at the Cartier Manufacture at La Chaux-de-fonds to adapt to the unique case shape.

There are six 37.15mm by 28.75mm references for the Cloche de Cartier. Each a numbered limited edition of 100 pieces, the two-handed model is offered in yellow or pink gold, and platinum, and is equipped with the handwound 1917 MC movement. Driven by the 9626 MC movement, the Cloche de Cartier Skeleton is available in pink gold and platinum (each a numbered limited edition of 50 pieces). Lastly, a platinum diamond-set openworked version is offered in a limited edition of only 20 pieces.

MONTBLANC

From the raft of newcomers presented by Le Locle-based Montblanc, we’ve decided to focus on a theme first presented at the final SIHH in 2019. Housed in a 40mm rose-gold case, the Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100 (Ref MB 128669) is a beautiful timepiece that effortlessly straddles the classic and contemporary, features an especially eye-catching burnt caramel dial with sunray finish, and – given the complexity of the complication – is a paragon of elegant simplicity.

In addition to time, day, date, month, moon-phase and leap-year functions, the self-winding movement also powers a second time-zone hour hand and a 24-hour display. Since levers have been eliminated from the mechanism (they’re replaced by wheels and cams), the time can be adjusted in either direction. Aside from the colour, this is no different from the whitedial model presented two years ago; however, the rich new tone elevates it to a new level of desirability.

The 77-jewel, 378-component Calibre MB 29.22, which is based around a Richemont three-hand movement, oscillates at 4Hz and provides a reserve of around two days. The watch is supplied on a brown alligator Sfumato strap with rose-gold buckle and comes in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

PATEK PHILIPPE

While the Ref. 5711/1A Nautilus in stainless steel will soon be discontinued, watch connoisseurs can look forward to a new addition to the cult range. The manufacture presented the Ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus featuring a ridged sunburst dial in an elegant olive green – a brand new hue for the collection.

There’s no doubt that the new colourway suits the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus perfectly. There is also a unisex bejewelled version, Ref 5711/1300A-001, which features a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. In almost all other respects, though, this is familiar territory for the 5711: the 4Hz 26-330 S C automatic calibre with Gyromax balance and Spiromax silicon balance spring – offering 35 to 45 hours of power – is a spin-off of the calibre 324 S C that has been in use since 2019. The 12-bar water resistance, applied hour markers and hands in white gold, and an eminently wearable 40mm by 8.3mm case size are equally par for the course.

Aside from the dial colour, nothing has really changed with the “entry-level” Nautilus. As discreetly classy as the 5711 ever was, it will also be impossibly difficult to get hold of. Back in 2019, The New York Times reported an eight-year wait – that is, if you could even get on the list. We can only assume that you’ll have alternative ways of checking the time between now and 2029.

BULGARI

It’s undeniable that Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo range has made an indelible mark in the world of haute horlogerie. The maison has racked up seven world records in a short seven years with the latest for the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar – the slimmest in the world. Reinterpreting a classical horological complication in a resolutely contemporary manner, the 40mm timepiece spotlights Bulgari’s finesse in rewriting traditional watchmaking codes.

No less than 408 components interact within the extremely tight space provided by the ultra-slender 5.8mm case of the sleek model. The development of the 2.75mm calibre BVL 305 required the manufacture’s movement design engineers to devise new solutions, such as the use of a micro-rotor and the optimal use of the space between the components without reducing their dimensions.

A testament to true genius in the realm of miniaturisation, this development powers the hours and minutes hands along with all the perpetual calendar functions: retrogradedisplay date, day, month and retrograde-display leap years.

They are adjusted by means of three correctors: one for the date at 2 o’clock, another for the month at 4 o’clock and a third for the day between 8 and 9 o’clock.

The owner will be able to read the time without having to adjust the indications before February 2100, a leap year that will require the adjustment of the functions. The timepiece is offered in titanium with a matching bracelet, as well as in platinum with a blue lacquered dial and accompanied with an alligator leather strap.

TUDOR

Among the new Tudor novelties revealed were two Black Bay Fifty-eight divers’ watches in precious metals, one being the brand’s first ever dive watch in a silver alloy case, and the other extravagant variant, the Fifty-eight 18K. As the name suggests, the latter comes in a 39mm solid yellow gold case, which is matched with a dial and rotating bezel in olive green.

Even more interestingly, Tudor has given the case a matte treatment, so that what might have looked blingy instead has an almost bronze appearance, which is certainly more in keeping with the Black Bay’s classic tool-watch design codes. Although we suspect that most gold dive watches rarely get closer to the waves than the deck of a superyacht, it’s also been endowed with water resistance of up to 20 bar.

A sapphire caseback reveals the manufacture calibre MT5400, which features a non-magnetic silicon hairspring, is Cosc-certified with a claimed daily accuracy of +4/-2 seconds, and oscillates at 4Hz for a reserve of around 70 hours.

Wrapping up the package is an alligator strap that gives the watch a distinctly vintage appeal, and it’s also supplied with one of Tudor’s excellent matching fabric alternative in green and gold; both come with buckles in the same yellow gold.

LOUIS VUITTON

Louis Vuitton’s contribution to high watchmaking this year is a flying tourbillon-fitted GMT creation peppered with house motifs and the glorious initial “V” – a tribute to Gaston Vuitton. Developed by the maison’s own manufacture La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon features a case whose shape is an extrapolation of those of the Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève, launched last year.

Made of shot-blasted grade 5 titanium, the 46mm case middle of this dynamic model draws inspiration from the Möbius strip. Stretched and elongated, it catches the eye with the convex curve of its bezel and crystal.

The watch has two push pieces on its right side of the case in order to simplify the setting of the GMT function. This enables the dedicated indicator, positioned within the open counter at 3 o’clock, to move forward or backward.

At the same time, it also allows Louis Vuitton to maintain the symmetry of the watch and further highlight the case’s soft proportions.

Powered by the in-house calibre LV82, the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is available entirely in titanium; with lugs, push pieces and winding crown in pink gold; or in a full titanium version with a dial carved from the Gibeon meteorite that landed in Namibia and hour markers set with baguette-cut diamonds.

CHOPARD

The manufacture commemorates its 25th anniversary by debuting into the world of jumping hours with the understated L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, featuring a 40mm ethical rose gold case and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève hallmark.

A jumping hour watch is unique in the way it indicates time. By eschewing a customary hour hand, it features a digital display with an hour disc that works with the minute hand. When the minute hand passes the 60th minute mark, it triggers the disc to leap forward to the next hour.

As this motion consumes more energy than a traditional display, Chopard makes the sensible move by equipping the timepiece with an L.U.C 98.06-L manualwound movement fitted with four barrels. Based on the exclusive Chopard Quattro technology, this provides the watch with a power reserve of up to eight days – more generous than many contemporary jumping hour models – despite the movement still beating at a brisk 4Hz frequency.

One of very few maisons who has mastered the centuries-old art of enamelling, Chopard endows the watch with a gorgeous white grand feu enamel dial in ethical rose gold, crafted by an enamelling artisan from the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. Only 100 pieces of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 will be produced.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Limited to 250 pieces, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon kicks off the Swiss manufacturer’s new long-term partnership with Marvel Entertainment. This first iteration of the Marvel heroes watch series is the result of the watchmaker’s desire to pay tribute to a new generation of inspirational heroes – a celebration of the family values and seamless blend of traditions and technology embodied by Marvel’s Black Panther hero.

Fusing craftsmanship and futuristic technology, the 42mm Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon also speaks to Audemars Piguet’s long history of design experimentation and connection to the larger cultural world – notably in the realms of pop culture and the entertainment industry.

Honed from titanium, the rounded case is topped off with a black ceramic octagonal-shaped bezel and crown. The black ceramic bezel has been decorated with the brand’s trademark alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers. Satin-brushed steel hexagonal screws, brazenly securing the bezel on the case, further enhance the watch’s two-tone aesthetics, while the visible purple gasket adds a vivid touch of colour.

A titanium sapphire caseback, similarly finished with sandblasting and satin-brushing, reveals part of the micro-mechanics ticking within. The dial brings together the pulsating flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with a handpainted rendition of Marvel’s Black Panther, comprised of white gold.

GUCCI

In a year marking its centenary, and almost 50 years since it became the first luxury fashion house to elevate the wristwatch to become a contemporary style statement of the highest quality – Swiss-made no less – Gucci takes a step into the arena of high watchmaking.

The four new collections are a dazzling fusion of Gucci’s innate Italian style and peerless Swiss expertise – a conjunction that is perfectly expressed in the new GG727.25 watch calibre, the brand’s first movement developed and produced by the state-of-the-art Kering movement manufacture in La Chaux-de-fonds, Switzerland.

Self-winding and ultra-slim at just 3.70mm in height, the new in-house calibre makes its debut in the Gucci 25H, a triumphant milestone in the maison’s watch history. With sleek, sporty lines, contrasting finishes and technological excellence, the Gucci 25H bears a playfully symbolic name, containing a number that creative director Alessandro Michele considers a talisman and one he often features in his collections. The GG727.25 calibre references other important numerical symbols: “7” to encapsulate a sense of completeness, “2” representing balance and cooperation and “5” symbolising curiosity and freedom.

The watch is presented in steel and pavé-set models, and two tourbillon iterations in platinum and yellow gold. Two further high-watchmaking creations, G-timeless and Grip, together with a high jewellery watch collection, were also revealed – each gathering inspiration from Gucci’s craft legacy and heritage elements, including flora and fauna, talismans and the emblematic interlocking G logo. The high-watchmaking collections can only be discovered by appointment at Gucci’s dedicated fine watches and jewellery boutique at Place Vendôme in Paris.