PRECIOUS TIME
The new Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36 and the Oyster Perpetual Lady-datejust from ROLEX are dripping with dazzling diamonds – perfect examples of the brand’s expertise in the art of gem-setting
AS THE GREAT Shirley Bassey once sang, “Diamonds are Forever”. And she wasn’t kidding. They take forever to make (formed over billions of years below the Earth’s crust), they last forever (they are the hardest naturally occurring substance in the world), and they remain forever an object of desire for mankind, as few can resist the supernatural sparkle of an expertly cut diamond.
By incorporating brilliant diamonds into the design of certain watches, Rolex has turned many of its coveted timepieces into exquisite examples of fine jewellery. It’s a painstaking process in which the gemologist, who carefully selects the stones, works in harmony with the gem-setter, who meticulously places them one by one into the dial, bezel, case, or bracelet. This year, Rolex has introduced two new Oyster Perpetual ladies watches – the Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36 and the Oyster Perpetual Lady-datejust – that both perfectly exemplify this breathtaking blend of precision and craftsmanship.
OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE 36
The first thing one notices about the watches in the Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36 series is that each has a dial pavéd with hundreds of diamonds – 450 to be precise – with index hour markers and the Roman numerals VI and IX all set in enamel. The Oyster case is equally shimmering, swathed in 254 brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn the lugs, lug caps, and case sides, while the bezel boasts a further 52 brilliant-cut stones, and the folding crown clasp on the strap another 61 brilliant-cut diamonds.
On each of the three designs in this series, the dial’s enamel appliques, as well as the alligator leather strap colours and certain gold finishes, differ slightly – creating a trio of stunning tonal palettes that include eye-catching coral, vivid turquoise, and sultry burgundy.
While their colour schemes set them apart, these waterproof watches all share a multitude of mechanical and other design attributes. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date. As for the robust middle case, it’s crafted from a solid block of 18-karat yellow, white, or
Everose gold, depending on the reference model.
The new Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36’s calibre 3255 movement incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which delivers incredible dependability, efficiency, and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The movement is further fitted with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring when it comes to shock resistance.
These modern manufacturing innovations add to the long and legendary lineage of this historic timepiece. Launched in 1956, the Oyster Perpetual Day-date was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the numerical date, the day of the week fully spelled out in an arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock – an innovative technical feat at the time, and a feature that’s currently available in a choice of 26 languages. Worn by many of the world’s political figures, directors, and visionaries, it’s no surprise this distinctive timepiece came to be known as the “presidents’ watch”.
OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST
The gem-setters and gemologists at Rolex have truly outdone themselves with the introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-datejust for 2021, as this glittering timepiece has diamonds adorning just about every surface imaginable. There are 158 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case sides and lugs, as well as 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. The dial, meanwhile, is paved with 291 diamonds, and features elegant 18-karat yellow gold Roman numerals with a black finish. Then there’s the captivating threepiece link President bracelet, which sparkles with a further 596 brilliant-cut diamonds and includes an elegantly concealed folding crown clasp.
Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Datejust has been synonymous with style and technical performance ever since its debut in 1945. The women’s version – the Oyster Perpetual Lady-datejust – first appeared in 1957 with a 28mm diameter that suited a more slender, feminine wrist. Since that time, it’s undergone many mechanical and design upgrades, while always maintaining its graceful elegance.
This latest version has a middle case crafted from a solid block of 18-karat yellow gold, while the case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows access only to Rolex watchmakers. The tasteful Twinlock winding crown, meanwhile, is fitted with a double waterproofness system and screwed down securely against the case, adding a further layer of protection. Finally, a virtually scratchproof sapphire crystal, fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, further protects the timepiece’s intricate innerworkings.
The watch is powered by calibre 2236, a technically advanced movement – entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex – which was released in 2014 and has been included on this particular model since 2015. It’s further fitted with a patented Syloxi silicon hairspring, which ensures regularity in any position and remains up to 10 times more precise than traditional hairsprings when withstanding shocks.
Both the Oyster Perpetual Lady-datejust and the Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36 are covered by Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification. This distinguished designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of rigorous tests, guaranteeing superlative performance. It’s a commitment to quality that makes these bejewelled timepieces as durable as they are dazzling.
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