TIMELESS TREASURES

The Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Exhibition, held this past June in the Geneva salons of PATEK PHILIPPE, offered horology enthusiasts the unique opportunity to see an array of limited-edition masterpieces before they make their way to private collections around the world

FROM JUNE 10-26 this year, the Geneva salons of Patek Philippe were home to an exhibition of rare, handcrafted horology masterpieces. In total, over 75 timeless treasures were on view at the company’s historic headquarters on Rue du Rhône, each displaying the superb artistry and attention to detail that has become such a hallmark of the brand.

The carefully-curated exhibit was a combination of the complete rare handcrafts collection from 2020 – that were, understandably, not on display last year – complemented by the first showing of the 2021 collection. Those lucky enough to have been in attendance were able to see all of these intricately designed creations under one roof.

This artful array of one-of-a-kind masterpieces and limited editions covered a broad spectrum of devices, including pocket watches, wristwatches, dome table clocks, and bracket clocks. In turn, the individual pieces within this collection paid tribute to a wide range of highly specialised artisanal skills, such as manual engraving, precious miniature painting on enamel (a Genevan specialty), flinqué enamel on hand guilloching, paillonné enamel, enamel with Limoges painting, fauré enamel (relief enamel), Longwy enamel on faience, and the timeless art of gemsetting.

The collection also featured awe-inspiring examples wood micromarquetry – a very niche expertise – as well as mixed-technique pieces that combined marquetry, manual engraving, and flinqué enamel. Visitors to the show were also invited to observe the actual artisans at work, as several were on hand to demonstrate their virtuosity in enameling, miniature painting with enamel, engraving, marquetry, and guilloching.

During its 10-day run, this magnificent exhibition offered the public a rare opportunity to see the complete inventory of these mechanical marvels before they were sent onwards to their respective owners around the world. Among the dozens of exquisite timepieces on display, two in particular perfectly represent the breadth, scope, and unsurpassed level of craftsmanship these artisans are capable of achieving: the ‘Jazz’ dome table clock (Ref. 20105M), and the ‘Panda’ pocket watch (Ref. 995/122J).

The refined technique of grand feu cloisonné enamel is brilliantly showcased in the ‘Jazz’ dome table clock; a unique timepiece that channels the rhythm, spontaneity, and exuberance of jazz music. In order to create both the stylised silhouettes of musicians in full swing, as well as the word “Jazz” – used here as a design element in the background – the artist painstakingly cut out, shaped by hand, and affixed to the base plate 20.3g of flat 24k yellowgold wire, with a cross section of 0.15 x 0.6mm.

The full composition is further brought to life via a palette of 48 solely transparent enamel colours, which work together in harmony – like the players in a band – to produce superb gradients and layered effects. Each enamel element required nine individual firings, at a temperature of approximately 840 degrees Celsius, in order to create the intricate hues that are meant to convey the heady sounds of jazz. Even the hour circle references the world of music, displaying a stylised keyboard design with black-lacquered hour markers and frames, plus a dial center in cloisonné enamel.

Smaller in size but no less demanding in its execution, the delightful ‘Panda’ pocket watch beautifully showcases the revered traditions of wood marquetry, manual engraving, and manual guilloching beneath transparent enamel (flinqué enamel); all of which pays tribute to China’s most famous fourlegged inhabitant, the giant panda bear.

The marquetry process required to illustrate this beloved black and white creature chomping on bamboo shoots required 194 veneer parts, and 190 inlays fashioned from 26 types of wood, to capture the required wealth of detail. As for the dial, it consists of hand-guilloched and handengraved bamboo motifs beneath transparent green enamel (flinqué enamel), with yellow-gold applied numerals and yellow-gold leaf-shaped hands indicating the time.

Adorning the bezel and the border of the case back are more engraved bamboo motifs, while a 0.34 carat green tourmaline cabochon is set in the crown. The bamboo-style bow – or top loop – is also hand-crafted, and the watch itself comes with a yellow-gold handcrafted stand inspired by bamboo, resting on a foot with a 0.33 carat green tourmaline cabochon.

Since its very inception, back in 1839, Patek Philippe has always considered its watches to be works of art; reflections of both refined aesthetics and mechanical perfection. The quality of craftsmanship, and the meticulous, manually executed finissage, results in understated, elegant designs that remain forever timeless.

Thankfully, this passion for preserving ancestral artistry is not reserved exclusively for one-of-a-kind pieces and limited editions. By consistently utilising such time-honoured embellishment styles throughout its many collections, Patek Philippe is ensuring that these highly-specialised skills survive; handed down from one generation to the next to enliven the cases, dials, and grand complications of the brand’s most luxurious timepieces.

PATEK PHILIPPE BOUTIQUE, ICONSIAM LG FLOOR TEL: +66 (0)2 288 0060