la­bel lover


Thailand Tatler - - STYLE -

Born into a blue-col­lar fam­ily in the south Lon­don dis­trict of Brix­ton, Sa­muel Ross was no stranger to work­ing-class cul­ture. Af­ter at­tend­ing de­sign school, he spent his first years in the fash­ion in­dus­try hon­ing his craft un­der streetwear star Vir­gil Abloh (now Louis Vuit­ton’s artis­tic di­rec­tor for menswear) be­fore es­tab­lish­ing his hot and buzzy new la­bel, A-ColdWall. When it came time to de­sign­ing his own col­lec­tion, Ross de­cided to go back to his roots, com­bin­ing his up­bring­ing with what he learned un­der Abloh—turn­ing in­dus­trial uni­forms into art. His de­but col­lec­tion, for fall/win­ter 2018, fea­tures util­i­tar­ian work­wear like fish­er­man boots and safety belts (no doubt bor­rowed from Abloh’s Off-White sig­na­ture) cre­ated in lux­u­ri­ous fab­rics or un­ex­pected colours. There are crin­kled blousons in shiny metal­lic hues and slouchy smocks, leather harem pants and hand-spun wool knitwear with con­struc­tion satchels. For his spring/sum­mer 2019 show, guests were even en­cour­aged to put on safety gog­gles and earplugs to par­tic­i­pate in an im­mer­sive per­for­mance set amid tur­bines and metal beams, an event con­trived to high­light the de­signer’s de­sire to see greater democrati­sa­tion in fash­ion.

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