THE PLEASURES OF SKIING IN LEBANON
THE BEACHES, DESERT, AND IMPRESSIVE ANCIENT SITES ARE ALWAYS WORTH A VISIT TO LEBANON, BUT WHAT’S BECOMING REALLY FASHIONABLE IS SKIING IN THE OVER 10,000-FEET-HIGH MOUNT LEBANON RANGE.
It’s such an easy trip from Istanbul where I lived for a while, to Beirut that I visited many times. Each time I tried to see a different part of the country and what ended up being my favorite was skiing in the glamorous Intercontinental Mzaar Mountain Resort&spa, less than an hour’s drive from Beirut.
Despite having a massive, snow-covered mountain range dominating a good part of their country, the Lebanese weren’t into skiing at all. This changed dramatically when in 1913 a Lebanese engineering student by the name of Ramez Ghazzaoui returned from his studies in Switzerland and brought his enthusiasm for the sport with him. It spread -first among his friends and then really took off. In 1934, the first ski club, Le Club Libanais was founded and in 1948 four athletes from Lebanon took part in the Winter Olympics in St. Moritz, Switzerland.
During the long years of the devastating civil war, skiing came to a halt, but since the 1990s it has experienced a revival. Resorts have been modernized and refurbished and skiing is once again a favorite Lebanese sport.
Today, there are six ski resorts to choose from with over 300 km of slopes and 49 lifts. The ski season lasts from mid-december to mid-april, depending on the amount of snowfall. In spring, it’s possible to ski in the mountains in the morning and sunbathe and swim in the Mediterranean
in the afternoon -preferably in Beirut’s chic Beach Club next to the iconic Pigeon Rock.
The Resorts
Faqra near the village of Kfardebian at the foot of Mount Sannine was founded in 1974 when it was considered one of the world’s best. Seven kilometers of slopes for skiing and snowboarding are available for skiers of all levels. The elevation ranges between 1,700 and nearly 2,000 meters. Four lifts, chair, tow, and drag, take you to the starting point for the rundown. You’ll enjoy the Swiss-style chalets of the village as well as a stay in the luxury Auberge De Faqra hotel.
The Cedars of God near Bsharri in the north of Lebanon is the oldest ski resort and the first place where a ski lift was installed back in 1953. It has come a long way since, expanding to several lifts and a higher altitude than Faqra. The surrounding area is home to the cedars of Lebanon which makes it an ideal destination for ski enthusiasts as well as nature lovers. The gentle lower slopes are great for beginners and cross country skiing through the cedar woods is widely practiced. Skidoo trips are also available. It’s a high-altitude location, starting at 2,000 meters. The distance by car from Beirut is about two hours. If you want a rest for skiing, visit the nearby small village of Bsharri the birthplace of Lebanon’s most famous poet Kahlil Gibran
with a museum in his honor, or venture into the mystic Kadisha Valley.
Upcountry in the direction of Byblos and at approximately 65 km from Beirut lies Laqlouq, locally known as Lucky Luke. It’s a smaller resort, favored by families and beginners. Located on a platform, surrounded by jagged ridges covered with thousands of cedar trees, Lucky Luke offers 6 lifts, among them one for baby skiing. The resort is also popular in the summer. Stay at the Shangri-la Hotel. If you stay more than just a weekend, you may want to give skiing a break and visit the delights of ancient and modern Byblos.
If you like it quiet and simple, the resort of Qanat Bakish is for you. Although the resort has 7 km of slopes and seven lifts, it has a cozy old-fashioned feeling about it. Beginners and young children can get their first taste of skiing in peace because there are no long lines at the lifts and the slopes aren’t crowded. Even the resort hotel Snow Land is slightly outdated but comfortable enough. Located at approximately 50 km from Beirut, near the small village of Baskinta, you have magnificent views of Mount Sannine.
Closest to Beirut at only 35 km is the Zarrour Club. With north-facing slopes located at the eastern side of Mount Sannine in Metn, Zarrour Club has several “firsts” for skiing in Lebanon. The station where the 4 lifts start has the only
snow-making system in the country, just in case. It also features two magic carpets, platforms for beginners, and offers kids sledging. The slopes are famous for the quality of snow and have names like “Frozen Cherry.” It’s a resort for skiers of all levels with snowboarding and snow tubing. There’s even a lake!
The Crowning Glory: Mzaar
Faraya Mzaar -as is its complete name- is Lebanon’s biggest and best-equipped ski resort. Just to give you an idea of the size: there are 42 slopes, 80 km of ski tracks, and 18 ski lifts. The surprising fact though is that despite the size -or maybe because of it- there are no long queues and waiting times at the lifts. That, in turn, means you can cover a lot of track in a day until the slopes close at 4 p.m.
Surrounded by three peaks, the elevation of the resort reaches from 1,850 m to over 2,000 m with tracks for skiers of all levels. As opposed to Cedars, there are no trees on any of the slopes, and the overall view resembles a white winter desert with rolling dunes of snow. Talking about views: whilst whizzing down the slopes, take a moment to stop and enjoy the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean at your feet.
The resort’s proximity to Beirut means that it’s a favorite weekend escape for the capital’s residents. But, there is a twist. Beirutis are fun-loving people who enjoy a lively après ski as much -if not more than- hurtling down the slopes in their most fashionable outfits.
The only 5-star ski resort in Lebanon sits at the feet of several steep runs from the peak of the mountain straight down onto the terrace of the fabulous Le Refuge restaurant. Apart from the rooms in the hotel, you can stay in private chalets, enjoying all of the many facilities the resort has to offer apart from skiing.
There is a health and fitness center and a spa called Les Thermes du Mzaar where beauty and relaxation therapies are applied under medical supervision. Furthermore there is a huge heated indoor pool. All these activities make one hungry and thirsty and five restaurants will cater to your needs. My personal favorite is Khaymet el Hor which serves authentic Lebanese mountain cuisine and if you can’t live without sushi, sit down at KOBE.
More entertainment is available in the form of a cinema, shops, bars, and cafés. All these amenities mean that quite a few of Beirut’s “beautiful people” dispense with hitting the slope altogether and just spend a weekend enjoying themselves for a spot of après ski and pampering in the resort.
More often than not, you’ll also have the pleasure of seeing groups of awed kids who have come from the capital to see and experience snow for the first time in their lives. Next time you plan a trip to the lovely Lebanon think about skiing, but don’t forget to pack your party clothes and you’ll fit right in.