A CITY THAT WHISPERS ITS SECRETS: PRAAGUE

IF YOU HAVE NOT VISITED PRAGUE YET, YOU ARE FORTUNATE AS YOU HAVE A TIMELESS CITY TO LOOK FORWARD TO WITH STREETS BOASTING ELEGANT ARCHITECTURAL STRUCTURES THAT MAINTAIN THE EPIC BEAUTY OF THE MIDDLE AGES, SPECTACULAR STATUES, AN ABUNDANCE OF CLASSICAL MUSIC, MICHELINSTARRED RESTAURANTS, AND STYLISH BOUTIQUE SHOPS.

Prague, one of the cities least affected by the destruction of World War II, is a rare place that has managed to maintain its historical character. When I arrive at Staré Město (Old City) from the airport, the cobblestone streets and the two-winged, large medieval doors are the first tidings of my journey in time. The hotel where I am staying, the Salvator Hotel in the heart of Prague, is in a relatively central location and close to all the places to visit. I begin the day exploring the Old City. After a two-three minute walk I reach Náměstí Republiky, or Republic Square. This is such an amazing place: as you turn around 360 degrees, the spectacular architectural buildings from different periods are aligned all around the square. The architecture of the Baroque façade of the Palladium that also contains wall remains from the 12th century, the Art Nouveau Municipal Building with its stained glass and magnificent mosaics, the Divadlo Hybernia Theatre that reflects the imperial architecture of the 18th century, the Czech National Bank Building with its simple design that was built in the communist era, and the Gothic Mihulka Powder Tower offer visitors a visual feast. Prague was also called the “City of a Hundred Spires” in the past, and was the center of the Bohemian Kingdom where Roman Emperor Charles IV, who lent his name to the Charles Bridge, lived. Under his rule, the city continued to develop into the capital of the empire.

I walk under the Mihulka Powder Tower where the crowning ceremonies of the Bohemian kings were held, towards

Staroměstské náměstí or the Old City. On the journey, I am accompanied by archways, buildings decorated with caryatids, and a cheerful crowd. The pointed towers of Týn Church extend to the skies, and are visible between the streets. It is said that the impressive architecture of this church was the source of inspiration for Walt Disney when designing Maleficent’s chateau in the film Sleeping Beauty. Prague has also put its name to many famous film scenes: Amadeus, James Bond: Casino Royale, The Illusionist, the 1998 production of Les Misérables, Wanted, Bourne Identity, and Spiderman: Far from Home are just a few. When I reach the Old City, my first stop is the medieval Astronomical Clock, one of the world’s oldest working mechanical clocks. The Gothic clock, designed by Mikuláš of Kadaň in the 15th century, consists of figures of the Twelve Apostles, a calendar that shows the astronomical signs, and a time disc that shows different times. There is always a crowd waiting in front of the clock to watch the procession of the wooden Apostles on the strike of every hour! According to a legend, in 1490 Hanuš, believed to have made the clock, became so famous with this clock that he was blinded by the city notables so he would not be able to reproduce it elsewhere. In response, Hanuš disabled the mechanism preventing the clock from working for a long period.

I take a break from legends, and go on a short tour of the surrounding streets in one of the phaetons waiting in the

Old City Square. Every detail of this tour corresponds with the Middle Ages: a coachman wearing a black cloak and hat, strong horses with fringed hooves, the wheels slowly advancing along the cobblestone streets… Another alternative for a nostalgic tour is a longer city tour under blankets in the cabriolet vintage carriages.

As noon approaches, I begin to feel hungry. I enter one of the side streets from the square and come to the Pušhkin Restaurant on Husova Street that serves traditional Czech dishes. For a starter, I order mushroom gratin and gulash soup from the Bohemian cuisine. This Czech speciality warms you up, especially on cold winter days. After leaving the restaurant, I purchase one of the Czech sweets trdelnik from a shop on my way. The blend of the walnut-cinnamon hot pastry roll with a delicious pudding filling is very tasty. Passing by the square and the clock, I continue on to Karlova Street that has an extremely inviting atmosphere with its radiant shops. In the Czech Republic that is famous worldwide for its crystal, you can come across stores selling souvenir crystal objects in many places. I enter one of the shops and buy a very elegant glass set with enamel decoration and a gold border -an unforgettable memento that extends from Prague to dinner tables. Before I head to Charles Bridge, I decide to listen to a classical music concert in the Klementinium St. Salvator Church. At certain times of the day in Prague, visitors have the chance to attend one of the events including concerts, ballet,

and opera in churches, the Municipal Building, and the Divadlo Theatre. I listen to the unparalleled compositions of Mozart, Bach, Beethoven, and Vivaldi in the Klementinium St. Salvator Church accompanied by the imposing acoustics created by the Baroque architecture. After a five-minute walk, I reach the 14th-century Charles Bridge that resembles an open-air sculpture gallery. The towers at the entrance and exit of the bridge are classified as the most beautiful Gothic structures in Europe. The 30 statues aligned along the left and right of the bridge were made in the 18th century, and stand boldly upright as if they want to relate their stories of thousands of years to visitors.

The view of the grand Prague Castle is stunning from this point. The castle, which has been structurally developed continuously since the 9th century, is a huge complex that contains palaces, churches, and administration and defence buildings of different architectural styles. Since 1918, the Prague Castle that was home to the Bohemian king and his princes has been used as a presidential venue.

For dinner, I am going to the Michelin-starred Alcron Restaurant. The tasting menu of chef Roman Paulus is the best choice. The menu begins with tuna sashimi with yellow radishes and cashew nuts, goose liver with gooseberry and pumpkin soup with parmesan and kumquat, and is followed by trout with sage, and veal

steak with morel mushrooms. This tasty feast is completed with a delicious sweet of pumpkin and passion fruit.

I continue the second day of my trip in Nové Město, the New City. When we say “New,” we are actually talking about a history of 700 years. When the population began to increase and Prague became the capital, Emperor Charles IV realized the Old City was no longer adequate and expanded the settlement areas of Prague. Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí) is bustling with street musicians, adorable wooden huts that sell Czech foods, and colorful shops. The architecture of the statue of St. Wenceslas on horseback at the beginning of the square and the National Museum, which is immediately behind the statue and hosts almost 14 million works are well worth visiting. I leave Wenceslas Square and continue to Železná Street. I am in front of the Estates Theatre where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart conducted the world premiere of the opera Don Giovanni in 1787. As Czechs greatly appreciated his works, Prague was always a special place for Mozart. This opera is still staged in theaters here. The statue

Il Commendatore, immediately in front of the building, pays tribute to the character in the opera with the same name. Departing from the world of Mozart, I pass in front of the house where Franz Kafka was born and lived. This city that has undergone transformations and bears the traces of different periods must have inspired Kafka a great deal when he wrote his novels! If you want to learn more about Kafka’s life, you can visit the Franz Kafka Museum located next to the river close to Charles Bridge. In this unusual museum that is in the shape of a labyrinth, the published works, diaries, and drawings of the

author, facts about the author’s life, and his letters to Milena are exhibited in a dark environment accompanied by background music that changes in each section.

Later, I join a boat tour that begins a short distance after Štefánik Bridge to observe Prague’s unique scenery from Vltava River. I am absorbed in watching the elegant architecture of Prague for two hours from this very comfortable glass-covered boat. The Art Nouveau Czech Bridge, the Rudolfinum Building that hosts the Prague International Music Festival in the spring months; the National Theatre, a symbol of Prague with its gold roof; and the

Petřín Observation Tower that is similar to the Eiffel Tower accompanied by the colors of the sky with the last lights of the evening sun create magnificent scenes resembling a painting on canvas. On the tour you can also see an excellent example of postmodern architecture: the so-called “Dancing House” that reminds the famous dancers of Hollywood from the 1930s, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers.

For my last meal in Prague I have come to the U Modré Kachničky Restaurant, one of Prague’s most stylish and authentic restaurants. With its antique tables and chairs, velvet curtains, old carpets, candlesticks on the tables, and paintings on the walls, you feel as if you are in a special home. I order fried duck with potato puree with apple, grapes, honey, and coriander from the menu that includes all the specialities of Czech cuisine. The mascarpone cheese and raspberry gratin tart is perfect for dessert.

After this feast that appeals both to the eye and the palate, I have come to Reduta, one of Prague’s famous jazz clubs. The venue, which was founded in 1957, is classified as the “First House of Jazz” in the Czech Republic, and has hosted many stars from the past to the present! Louis Armstrong, Ronnie Scott, Wynton Marsalis, and B.B. King are just a few… In 1994, former U.S. President Bill Clinton visited Reduta and played the saxophone here.

On the way back to my hotel, I wonder how many more treasures there are in this timeless city waiting to be explored. Some cities have to be experienced, not written about. This is why Prague will continue to whisper its secrets to those who want to experience the city for many more years…