BAHRAIN: ISLAND OF PEARLS AND BIRDS

BAHRAIN, THE ISLAND NATION IN THE PERSIAN GULF, IS A MIDDLE EASTERN COUNTRY LIKE NO OTHER. PEARLS, BIRDS, AND THE FOOTSTEPS OF IBN BATTUTA, THE GREATEST MEDIEVAL MUSLIM TRAVELER AND WRITER, AWAIT YOU HERE.

The Kingdom of Bahrain consisted originally of an archipelago of 33 islands, but land reclamation has increased the number to 84, all connected by roads and highways. Like no other Middle Eastern country, Bahrain has no land border with other countries; the only connection to terra firma being a 24 km long causeway to Saudi Arabia.

Until well into the 20th century, pearling was the most important commerce in Bahrain. The pearls, harvested by a huge fleet of pearl dhows, were considered the best in the world and to this day, Bahrain has maintained the nickname “Island of Pearls.”

The name of the capital Manama has its origin in the Arabic word for “place of dreams.” With two such romantic names, it’s no wonder that I was charmed the moment I set foot in the airport which is located in Manama’s twin city Muharraq, a very short drive away.

As the modern skyline of Manama heaves into view, it doesn’t take long to divert the eyes from modern skyscrapers and delve into the colorful streets of Manama, exploring 5,000 years of history starting with the Bronze Age civilization of Dilmun.

I have always been fascinated by the travels of Ibn Battuta (1304-1368) who ventured even further than Marco Polo, 100

years before him. He would have seen the traditional houses in Manama which are everywhere with their distinctive wind towers, a cooling system to relieve the summer heat. Listen closely and you can hear the breeze whistle through the openings.

It’s easy to navigate Manama on foot and the best time to do so is between November and April when it’s not too hot. Many are the sites and attractions from various centuries to explore and admire. A UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Qal’at al-bahrain, a tell or mound formed by many layers of ancient structures with the towering Portuguese fort on top. It’s some 6 km from Manama, so you need a car to get there but the views and artifacts in the museum give a vivid picture of Bahrain’s ancient history. Back in town there is, of course, the stunning Al-fateh Grand Mosque, rather sober from the outside but absolutely dazzling on the inside.

The Dilmuns created a vast trade empire and trade, in the form of souvenir shopping in Manama’s several souks, also attracts visitors today. From the tiny shops and craft stands in the colorful Bab al-bahrain Souk to the designer outlets and jewelers of the mall of City Center Bahrain and Seef Mall, you can shop till you drop. One should also not forget the Kingdom of Perfume. Museum lovers will enjoy the Beit al-quran, a collection dedicated to Islamic arts and to historic Quranic manuscripts.

After all the walking and sightseeing, I did feel hot and rather than jumping in the pool of my hotel, I went to splash around in the Wahooo! Waterpark, conveniently located in the city center. It’s the most modern and futuristic waterpark in the Middle East, designed under the theme of a subtropical paradise. Spread out over 15,000 m2, you find games, slides and pools, indoors and outdoors activities, and a schooner at the center.

The next day, I went to discover the marvels of two other Bahrain attractions: desert and bird observation points. Several tours are available so you have a good choice. I couldn’t wait to see the famous symbol of Bahrain: the Tree of Life. It’s a 400-year-old mesquite tree which grows in the middle of the Sakhir desert without any visible source of water. No wonder it’s often referred to as a miracle tree.

Ninety percent of Bahrain is flat and covered with desert. There is a fertile strip along the coast and a particularity there are the freshwater springs which bubble up in the middle of saltwater lakes, lagoons, and marshes. A stop on the desert tour is A’ali, one of Bahrain’s biggest cities, famous for the burial mounds, dating from the Dilmun era and for the distinctive pottery. Craft shops are found all over the city.

Given the desert character of the country, it came as a surprise to me that Bahrain is such a sanctuary for birds

and a favorite destination for bird-watchers. More than

330 species of birds, including flamingos and the rare Socotra cormorant have their breeding grounds in the country. In addition, it’s a stopover for migrant birds which increase the bird population to millions during the season.

The first visit was to Hawar Islands, which is in fact an archipelago of several desert islands, many of them just a mound of sand peeking out of the sea. The islands are a breeding ground especially for the cormorants. They are uninhabited and it’s a restricted reserve to protect nature. Boat day trips are the best way to visit and observe the birds. They depart from the Durrat Marina in the country’s south. You can even watch birds on the Bahrain Fort or in places called Busaiteen Beach, Eker Creek, Arad Bay, or Alba Marsh. All of them are somewhat out of the way and difficult to find, so if you are an avid bird-watcher, you are well advised to find a local expert to guide you there.

Far easier is a visit to the Azizia Bird Kingdom in Jood on the Amwaj Islands. It’s a carefully controlled ecosystem, created to shelter and breed over 70 species of birds from all over the world. The birds you watch here are in captivity but the experience is both beautiful and educational.

In 2012, Bahrain was the Arab Capital of Culture. Music plays a great part in local culture and if you happen to visit in

March, you can watch a great music event, namely the Spring of Culture with famous international performers. Equally in March, enthusiasts of a different kind will flock to Bahrain -for motorsports. On March 20-22, the Bahrain Grand Prix 2020, which first took place in Bahrain in 2004, is held at the Bahrain International Circuit in Sakhir the race, several tours include a visit to the circuit.

I said that I was charmed from the first moment I set foot in this fascinating Middle East country and after two visits I am even more so. The combination of ancient history, a diverse culture, birds, and lovely people make me want to return and play Ibn Battuta some more.