Architectural Digest (UAE) - - Contents -

Sump­tu­ous high jew­ellery col­lec­tions with sur­pris­ing in­spi­ra­tions

“Colour is linked with joy, and this col­lec­tion cel­e­brates the world’s di­ver­sity of colour,” said Jacque­line Karachi-Lan­gane, Cartier’s head of high jew­ellery de­sign, as she un­veiled the Coloratura col­lec­tion this sum­mer. Its 240 pieces take in­spi­ra­tion from cel­e­bra­tory tra­di­tions around the world: from In­dia’s Holi fes­ti­val to the cer­e­mo­nial danc­ing of west African tribes. Like the three Cartier broth­ers who trav­elled the world in search of rare gem­stones and ex­otic in­spi­ra­tions, Coloratura trav­els from West to East and back again, in both de­sign and ma­te­ri­als; Aus­tralian black opal ap­pears along­side faded green tour­ma­line in the Mat­suri suite, a nod to the paper lanterns set afloat in Ja­panese cel­e­bra­tions.

The house em­braces the use of com­puter-aided de­sign along­side tra­di­tional jew­ellery-mak­ing tech­niques, en­sur­ing that the hand-threaded col­umns of spinel beads that fea­ture in the African-in­spired Kanaga neck­lace are just as pre­cise as the geo­met­ric di­a­mond mo­tif that runs down their cen­tre. KarachiLan­gane is par­tic­u­larly proud of the Ho­lika bracelet, which sees chrysoberyl beads knit­ted to­gether and draped across a vo­lu­mi­nous struc­ture so that a 65-carat rubel­lite ap­pears to float on a bed of tangy green droplets. The end re­sult is ev­ery bit as im­pres­sive as the Cartier broth­ers would have wanted.

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