Grand Hotel et de Milan

BACKGROUND Open since 1863, this Leading Hotels of the World member has been owned by the Bertazzoni family for three generations and has welcomed guests ranging from Hemingway and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor to composer Giuseppe Verdi and opera singer Maria Callas.

W H AT ’ S IT LIKE? Designed in the style of a grand palazzo, the property, like many of Milan’s extravagant and luxurious houses, has an unassuming façade. Once inside, it is elegant grandeur all the way, in spite of all of the Covid precautions in place. The public areas and guestrooms sport priceless antiques that have been there so long that they have become part of the hotel’s history. Ask to see the Verdi suite, complete with the desk that he used.

WHERE IS IT? On Via Manzoni in the centre of the city, about a five-minute walk from the financial district and a short stroll from La Scala opera house, the Duomo and the fashion area. It’s an excellent location whether you are in Milan for business or leisure, or a bit of both.

ROOMS The 72 rooms and 23 suites (entry-level Classic rooms are 23 sqm) feature period details such as parquet floors and Italian marble in the bathrooms.

A recent refurbishment by Milan’s Dimore Studio has seen a number of rooms upgraded to provide a contemporary feel with individual colour schemes and accessories, although they still retain a sense of history. All have air conditioning, minibars, flatscreen TVs, desks, plenty of plug sockets (although not all have USB charging points), safes and free wifi.

My 50 sqm Superior suite – the Duke and Duchess of Windsor suite – had a lavish sitting room with slightly overstuffed sofas and a dining table, with sliding doors to a bedroom fitted with plenty of wardrobes. Both rooms had splendid windows overlooking the street. The bathroom had twin sinks, a large shower, good-quality robes and products by Etro.

FOOD AND DRINK With some Covid restrictions still in place in Milan at the time of writing, the Caruso restaurant and bar is the hotel’s main venue for dining and drinking at the moment. With an attractive winter garden overlooking Via Croce Rossa, it is a great place to have breakfast and watch the city’s elegant office employees and fashionistas walking to work. There’s a limited menu at present but for lunch or dinner make sure you try the saffron risotto, a superb Milanese classic. This is also a good place for an after-work or predinner drink, although in normal times there’s also Gerry’s Bar and the American Bar, both excellent for drinks with your business contacts.

The hotel’s top restaurant, although it was closed during my visit, is the Don Carlos, which pays homage to Verdi. The food is top-class Italian and the superb wine cellar offers about 200 labels.

MEETINGS Plenty of options, including the Verdi, Giordano and Puccini rooms, which accommodate 50, 60 and 120 delegates theatre-style, respectively.

LEISURE There is a fitness room on the second floor. The hotel doesn’t have a spa, although guests will be able to use the new facilities at its nearby sister hotel, Straf, which at the time of my visit in September was in the final stages of renovation.

VERDICT Living history, grandeur and Italian style and service in a location for business travellers that is hard to beat. You will probably be able to walk to most meetings, otherwise taxis are easy to find. Jeff Mills