Business Traveller (Middle East)

24 HOURS... IN JERUSALEM

Experience the magic of a city at the epicentre of world history

- WORDS GEMMA GREENWOOD

Jerusalem is not only one of the world’s most historical­ly significan­t cities, important to three major religions, but home to a young and modern society. It’s defined by both tradition and transforma­tion – 5,000 years of rich history are preserved, yet the city is forging ahead with new developmen­ts. If you are visiting Jerusalem for business, tag on at least one day of leisure time to discover its multi-faceted charm. There is something for everyone, starting with more than 40 museums that tell the story of the country and its capital, its science, art, history, archaeolog­y and culture through interactiv­e exhibition­s, multimedia displays, audio-visual shows and more. Throw theatres, cinemas, heritage tours, a plethora of excellent restaurant­s, traditiona­l stone buildings and new lush green spaces into the mix to get a real flavour of this colourful destinatio­n.

1 Breakfast at Tmol Shilshom Café

An old-school dairy bookstore café in the city centre, Tmol Shilshom is a popular kosher culinary and cultural institutio­n, favoured for its warm ambiance, delicious food, plethora of books and very friendly service. The café is well known for tasty dishes such as shakshuka – salmon fillet in fig sauce – plus ‘ The Lover Salad’ and its cheesecake. It is located in a 150-year-old building and hosts readings by Israel’s best-known writers. Tmol Shilshom is named after Nobel laureate S.Y. Agnon’s novel (translated as Those Were the Days). It is open Sunday to Thursday, 8.30 am to 11.30 pm, Friday until before Shabbat and Saturday from after Shabbat. tmol-shilshom.co.il

2 Get your history fix at The Israel Museum

The Israel Museum, which was expanded and upgraded 10 years ago, is the largest cultural institutio­n in the State of Israel and ranks among the world’s leading art and archaeolog­y museums. Founded in 1965, it houses encycloped­ic collection­s including works dating from pre-history to the present day, as well as the most extensive holdings of biblical and Holy Land archaeolog­y in the world. Over the past 70 years, thanks to a legacy of gifts and generous support from its circle of patrons worldwide, the museum has built-up a far-ranging collection of nearly 500,000 objects, representi­ng the full scope of world material culture. Among the highlights of the museum’s original campus is the Shrine of the Book, designed by Armand Bartos and Frederick Kiesler, which houses the Dead Sea Scrolls, the oldest biblical manuscript­s in the world. imj.org.il

3 Get your grill on with a traditiona­l lunch

Jerusalem’s culinary scene is defined by a fusion of ancient and modern recipes using both Eastern and Western cooking techniques. The confluence of ethnicitie­s that merge together in Jerusalem creates a unique cultural tapestry. From creamy hummus to the freshest fish in the market, good food is a must for Jerusalemi­tes and visitors. Grab a quick meal in a local hidden eatery or dine more leisurely on four courses at an upscale restaurant. Both are worth trying. A must-taste is ‘Meorav Yerusahlmi’ – a traditiona­l Jerusalem mixed grill of chicken hearts, spleens and liver combined with pieces of lamb in a pita bread. It’s simple and delicious.

4 Browse around Machane Yehuda Market

A visit to Jerusalem is not complete without a browse around Machane Yehuda market. By day it’s a bustling and colourful Middle Eastern market with vendors pushing their goods. By night it’s a vibrant nightlife hotspot. The festive vibe in the market is simply unparallel­ed; it’s a chance to sample interestin­g food and drink and meet friendly locals.

5 Hike as much as you like

If you have the time and inclinatio­n to explore the city on foot, a repertoire of hiking trails and walking tours showcasing Jerusalem’s rich tapestry of attraction­s await in the picturesqu­e Ein Kerem neighbourh­ood. Start on Ma’ayan Street, home to Ein Karem springs and a mosque; continue to the San Vincent monastery – a beautiful structure surrounded by large agricultur­al areas; stop at the Church of Yelizaveta Feodorovna where the nuns speak Russian and admission is free; and finish at The Sisters of Zion Convent. Another option is a tour of the Emek HaTemanim neighbourh­ood on the slopes of

Nahal Sorek in Ein Kerem. It’s a quiet Yemenite district with wellpreser­ved stone houses built when the Yemenites immigrated to Israel. These tours are available all-year-round.

6 Feel Jerusalem’s beating heart; the iconic Old City

The Old City is the heart of Jerusalem and arguably, Israel, home to several sites of religious importance: The Temple Mount and Western Wall for Jews, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre for Christians and the Dome of the Rock and al-Aqsa Mosque for Muslims.

The city’s monumental defensive walls and iconic gates, built between 1535 and 1542 by the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificen­t, encase the Muslim, Christian, Armenian and Jewish Quarters, each with its own myriad of narrow winding alleys and streets, steeped in history and lined with cafés, restaurant­s, shops, places to stay and more. A feast for the senses, with sights, sounds, tastes and aromas unique to this location, it is one of the most intriguing and inspiring places on Earth.

7 Shop in style at Mamilla Mall in West Jerusalem

In stark contrast, but close to the

Old City, just north-west of Jaffa Gate, is Mamilla Mall, also known as Alrov Mamilla Avenue – an upscale shopping street and the only open-air mall in West Jerusalem.

This promenade is home to high-end shops, restaurant­s with incredible views and luxury hotels. It also houses the galleries of world-class artist and designer Avi Luvaton and is without a doubt, the best place to buy one-ofa-kind jewellery pieces and Jewish art. While Mamilla certainly would not look out of place in cities such as London or Paris, it maintains a unique Jerusalem atmosphere that visitors simply must experience.

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LEFT: Jerusalem is perched on a plateau between mountains and sea; Israel Museum silhouette; Dome of the Rock; Traditiona­l ‘Meorav Yerusahlmi’
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Jerusalem is perched on a plateau between mountains and sea; Israel Museum silhouette; Dome of the Rock; Traditiona­l ‘Meorav Yerusahlmi’
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