TAKING SCOTLAND IN YOUR STRIDE

Walk the Highlands and Borders to best discover this country’s history and culture

When I first learned I would be taking a walking trip, I immediately envisioned a marathon event – and the picture was not a pretty one. I imagined long days focused on getting to the destination, enduring challenging climbs and seemingly endless roads and breathless moments where I worried I might not be able to keep up. It didn’t comport with my vision for how I usually go about exploring new places and sampling new cultures. However, after two back-to-back trips with The Wayfarers Walking Vacations in Scotland last June, I consider myself a convert to this form of travel. Whether in the Highlands or the Borders, we walked through time, deeply engaging with the historical and current culture of these distinct regions and then with each other in rich exchanges and heartfelt camaraderie.

Even as a travel photographer who has chased stories on remote trails and distant tarmacs for most of my years, the two trips were a bit ambitious: participants on these tours nearly always book only one itinerary at a time.

Averaging 10 miles a day, the tours were packed with gorgeous vistas, historical sites and local lore at every turn. Despite the beauty, however, it was the camaraderie kept us going. My fears to the contrary notwithstanding, competition was never in play. Everyone was supportive and each went at his or her own pace.

One person from each trip usually percolated up to the front of the line – intense walkers who took even the steepest passages with ease.

Nor was age a factor; We had some life-long walkers whose walking sticks seemed natural extensions while they ventured forth, while others who were new to this mode of travel got to know their own bodies while exploring new surroundings.

S IS FOR SCOTLAND

If you come away with any memories in particular they will likely involve salmon, sheep and sky, whether in the highlands or borderlands. These include patient, solitary moments of fly-fishing along the Tay, Tummel and Tweed rivers. Who knew there were seven names for the seven stages of life for salmon?

Sheep of several varieties dotted the countryside. These pastoral scenes evoked simpler times – until the AV/4 wheelers came bounding up the hill with several dogs in tow nudging the herds from one pasture to another. In the villages along the borders we heard stories about the Reviers – violent gangs of thieves in the night who take advantage of the lingering darkness to steal away entire herds of sheep and cows to fence to the highest bidder.

While a tour through Highlands might be spent walking through forests, from the impressive Caimgorn Mountains to the Glen Tilt, a walk through the Borders in Scotland was defined by wide open vistas. Under these endless skies were the soft stands of the Athol Forest and Highland Perthshire – through the centuries thousands of acres here were used to grow timber for masts that made the British Navy ships among the most formidable in the world.

And in the way of the Dukes and Earls of Athol, we found ourselves enjoying a respite in the well-appointed Blair Castle and surrounding garden. We also walked back in time to view the ruins of the 14th century Black Castle near Pitlochry and the 180-foot Black Spout Waterfall before descending into more woods and forests.

All this was followed by a wee bit of whisky and a steaming bath to soak tired muscles. Unlike the more seasoned walkers, perhaps, I needed this nightly respite to face the next day’s route.

One of those days meant travelling the Scottish Upland

Way, which runs coast to coast with steep climbs. We started in Yarrowford and began our ascent immediately. This was not for the