LPM Restaurant & Bar, Gate Village, Dubai International Financial Centre

BACKGROUND Now 10 years old, LPM is one of Dubai’s grandfathers of gourmet dining and brings French flair to the heart of Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). One of an international chain, which started in London, its chairman, Arjun Waney, is also the co-founder of Zuma.

W H AT ’ S IT LIKE? It’s easy to forget the pandemic when you walk into this cosy French diner, full of chattering voices and the clinking of glasses. Even abiding by COVID-19 guidelines, the restaurant is still buzzy and vibrant. Décor is classic, from the wooden shutters on the exterior to the French-inspired art deco, staying true to the concept’s origins.

THE FOOD Traditionally Niçoise, the cuisine is bursting with flavour, starting with the ‘cut them yourself’ tomatoes that await guests on the table, which are sliced and drizzled with fresh lemon juice and olive oil as a pre-appetiser. I tried the signature ‘ tomatini’ on arrival; a cherry tomato martini topped with a drizzle of black pepper and balsamic vinegar, which was surprisingly amazing. Dishes explode with taste, from the overnight marinated lamb cutlets, which just melt in the mouth, to the yellowtail tuna carpaccio on a bed of tangy avocado. The burrata with basil and cherry tomato appetiser was the lightest, most delicious burrata I’ve ever tasted – the texture soft and rich, yet light and juicy. Classically French dishes such as escargot and potato gratin did not disappoint either. The potato gratin was a decadent, creamy dish, which complemented the succulent salt-baked fish fillet. While I was expecting to feel stuffed after all that, the food was light and gentle, so I had room to try the fluff y lightweight cheesecake and chocolate mousse – picture a crispy spongy outside and warm rich chocolate sauce inside, topped with malt ice cream.

THE SERVICE In Dubai, it is such a welcome novelty to have French staff serve in a French restaurant and to have them share their stories of how they eat these foods at home with their families. It totally transformed the experience and really made it easy to imagine, for a moment, that I had spent the night in a small chateau in southern France.

T H E W O R K S PA C E This is a space to meet, converse, and enjoy the beauty of face-to-face connections. There is way too much happening here to think about work.

VERDICT There is good reason this restaurant has retained its top spot in a market as competitive as Dubai, and in an area of the city that is a dining destination in its own right. From staff to food, it is truly a special place in the city and a must visit, at least once. Melanie Swan

Traditionally Niçoise, the cuisine is bursting with flavour