Review: Der Keller, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai

IT IS REPORTEDLY Dubai’s oldest licensed restaurant having occupied a permanent residence at the old Chicago Beach Hotel and, since 1997, set up shop in the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, which was built upon its former host’s site. And now this traditional German eatery celebrates a new milestone having recently been completely refurbished.

With Munich’s premier event Oktoberfest in full swing and news about it resonating around the world, I had a hankering for pretzels and litres of malt beverages. So I decided to check out how they had improved this JBH institution.

Upon entering the cavernous Der Keller, the one thing you can say about it is it is set up for fun. The pine and brick motif running throughout the restaurant, combined with a view of the ocean, makes for a wonderful Bavaria-on-Sea environment. Some diners had even dusted off their lederhosen in order to make the experience more authentic.

Until October 4, Der Keller is holding its own version of Oktoberfest. German head chef Marcel Kuropka has pulled out all the stops to make is as close to the original as possible. Having redesigned the menu in conjunction with the restaurant’s relaunch last month he says, “We’ve taken a new approach and included dishes and beverages from neighbouring countries including Austria and Switzerland. There’s now more choice than ever, while staying true to Der Keller’s heritage and our loyal supporters over the last 18 years.”

Culinary highlights of the Oktoberfest menu include Weisswurst (white sausage with sweet mustard and pretzel); Krautspätzle mit Bierzwiebeln (German egg noodles with brew-soaked onion); and Germknödel (Bavarian dumplings stuffed with plum sauce). There is also the famed Oktoberfest Brezen - giant pretzels which are a mainstay of the festival – as well as an impressive assortment of drinks on tap.

The pretzels were huge and mighty fine. I couldn’t get enough of the salty treats during my visit, especially when smeared with the accompanying spread. The dumplings were also another firm favourite, the bready texture mixing superbly with the plum sauce to create a sweet and savoury concoction.

Perhaps the only minor quibble that arose was one of the guests felt the dining room was a tad cold, to which the restaurant instantly provided a shawl. Excellent service all round.

If you head down for Oktoberfest in traditional attire ( lederhosen for the men and dirndls for the ladies) each participant will enjoy a beverage on the house. Prost!

Call: 04 366 5866