Condé Nast Traveller Middle East
GRAND GASTRONOMY
Monaco has long been a spot for gastronomic excellence. Auguste Escoffier, the man who pioneered French Grande Cuisine, cooked in Monte-Carlo in the late 19th century, and a Monaco dining guide reads like a roll call of the world’s finest culinary artists. But a refreshing new wave of culinary talent is injecting some fun into the otherwise grandiose dining scene. This year, in a pioneering move, Monte-Carlo Beach invited chef Mélanie Serre to take the helm of its sweeping waterfront terrace restaurant, the chef now serving 100 per cent organic food and wild-caught fish. Much produce comes from the organic vegetable garden to create dishes like French beans in spicy broth, carrot with cumin and carrot top pesto and showstoppers like Mediterranean red mullet with potato gnocchi.
In the glitzy centre of Monte-Carlo, triple-Michelin starred Chef Yannick Alléno has also landed at Hôtel Hermitage with Pavyllon Monte-Carlo. The superstar chef ’s – who also helms a restaurant at Dubai’s One&Only The Palm – new concept serves his classic elevated French cuisine but also redefines fine dining. The garden-inspired seafront terrace sees magnums of rosé grape float between tables while guests seated inside have a front-row seat to the open kitchen. What’s more interesting, however, is the culinary journey of Monaco’s oldest, and arguably most opulent hotel, Hôtel de Paris. The landmark has resided on the fabled Casino Square since 1864 and is a true ode to Monégasque splendour. Muscling in next to chefs like Alain Ducasse and Franck Cerutti is 26-year-old Lebanese chef Yasmina
Hayek who opened the third iteration of her family’s beloved Lebanese restaurant Em Sherif this April. As the daughter of founder Mireille, Yasmina was tasked with bringing Lebanon’s authentic and beloved cuisine to the Principality while adding a local twist. You’ll find Em Sherif classics like hummus, mutabbal and fattoush tabbouleh, but with dishes inspired by the locale like steamed whole sea bass stuffed with fragrant caramelised rice. Levant-meets-Riviera too in the al fresco setting: a luscious green garden and terrace overlooking the endless blue sky and Mediterranean.
As far as dining destinations go, The Maybourne Riviera is cementing itself as the shiniest new spot to visit. Much like its coterie of designers, heavyweights in the culinary world have stepped in to lead its six outlets. Chef Mauro Colagreco’s new Riviera Restaurant, championing the coast from Liguria to Nice is, and one of the most sought-after reservation spots this season. Multi-starred Jean- Georges Vongerichten’s pool bar serves lobster rolls, crispy French fries and truffle pizza and pastry prodigy Benoît Dutreige whips up zingy Menton lemon tart and fluffy Madeleines. Many wellheeled visitors are heading to Colagreco’s rooftop restaurant Ceto, an ‘ode to the sea’ and culinary dive into the Mediterranean. Exciting things are happening in this corner of the Riviera, and with Cote d’Azur’s long summers stretching into November, there’s much life to be had in the season yet.