The Precision Surgeon
Founder of 111SKIN and leading Harley Street cosmetic surgeon Dr. Yannis Alexandrides specializes in facial reconstructive surgery. We discuss what it takes to launch an iconic skincare brand and push the boundaries of surgery
What do the first 30 mins of your day look like, your morning routine? I always get up with my wife and sons around 7am before we all have breakfast together and then we walk with the boys to the station as they then head off to school. Afterwards Eva and I have some time together and that will be spent talking or working out together, and this of course includes a morning walk with Sparky (the family dog). Following that I head to Harley Street and at Harley street I will do consultations or treatments with my patients, I then split my time between Harley St and the 111SKIN offices – I think I can now make it across in seven minutes!
You’re originally a surgeon, how did launching a skincare brand originate? As a surgeon, my primary goal has always been to ensure the very best results for my patients – we weren’t satisfied with what was available to surgeons at the time, so we set about finding healing solutions. Working with a team of scientists, we pioneered the brand signature healing complex NAC Y2. NAC Y2 was infused within the brand’s inaugural healing serum, which proved so effective that patients were seeking the products for everyday use. From there, 111SKIN was born.
What is at the core of 111SKIN, the DNA and how has it grown so quickly to iconic status globally? To develop skincare treatments that both recreate and complement aesthetic treatments in the clinic for a more holistic approach to beauty. It’s about beauty and quality of skin and understanding the ageing process inside and out. We had little budget for marketing and so our business grew organically – largely by engaging with artists that work on a practical level – makeup artists, hair stylists, facialists, fashion designers & models.
How did you retail 111SKIN from the outset and what have been the challenges scaling this globally? In June 2012 and starting with selected products from our now established Reparative range we launched in the beauty halls of Harrods, London. We started with a singular shelf at the back of the beauty hall and two members of staff that were dedicated to establishing the brand with Harrod’s clientele. For the first 3/4 years we were exclusive to Harrods and were focused on delivering the passion and research behind the brand, so much so that we created an extended family of clients that wanted more from 111SKIN. With our customers being the focus behind our range and their feedback being fundamental to the growth of the brand, we developed a range that grew from their feedback such as the light version of our bestselling product the Y Theorem Serum. With the strength of our range and the demand from our customers, my wife and co-founder, Eva Alexandrides put in the research to develop our sheet masks after a trip from Asia. Starting with one mask, the Bio Cellulose Facial Treatment Mask, we then developed the Gold Mask that successfully turned into the Rose Gold Brighten
ing Facial Treatment Mask in a hydrogel texture. From our journey in Harrods, we then grounded ourselves in America and Asia and from there have gone from 2 to 80 members of staff in the last seven years that are located both in stores and head offices. Today we stand proudly in the Beauty Hall at Harrods with a renowned counter and window display celebrating the fundamentals of 111SKIN.
Positioned in leading luxury spaces and an international presence that is coveted by fashion designers, make-up artists and supermodels alike, 111SKIN formulates its skincare to deliver a no filter confidence. We are located in some of the most prestigious retail spaces like Harrods, Neiman Marcus, Mecca and Lane Crawford. We also offer aesthetic performance face and body treatments with our revolutionary spa concept that is present in the world’s leading spa resorts and hotels like Sandy Lane, Jumeirah, Four Seasons and Bvlgari. The focus for the future is to continue to deliver unprecedented quality and results to our clients and customers as well as positioning ourselves as the leading global skincare brand that is surgically inspired, science led and drives clinical results. I am still learning when it comes to building a brand, and with 111SKIN and my practice it is a work in progress and it’s a fantastic feeling if you can do it successfully. You do need a bit of luck because there are so many uncontrollable forces that can make or break you which you cannot wholly anticipate. Personally, I find it is about having a vision and knowing what you want.
How do the research and commercial sides of the business work together and do you feel particularly drawn to one side of the business? The research and commercial sides of the business go hand in hand – both Eva and I have our strengths and use these to the best of our abilities. I am a surgeon and therefore provide the medical expertise, bringing innovations and pushing the possibilities of skincare efficacy for the brand. Eva takes these innovations forward, imagining how they can be delivered in the most compelling manner, and creating personal connections to the products that extends to ingredients, sensorials, new product development and packaging.
What has been the biggest challenge since launching the brand and how did you overcome it? To be unstoppable means to be utterly determined to succeed, and not to give up because of adversities, problems or bad luck. I can recall many moments that have been challenging, although the one that sticks out was when Eva and I were in the States trying to secure our first attempt to sell 111SKIN products outside of London. We had an interview with the CEO of Bloomingdales, after presenting the skincare line the CEO said to sell a beauty line in the US one had to have $50 million to support
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the venture. I took one look at Eva, and we both knew this wouldn’t deter us. We most certainly did not have $50 million to bankroll our business ambitions, although we knew this wouldn’t discourage us. We continued our pitches with buyers tirelessly until we met the Chief Beauty Buyer at Barney’s. The rapport was fantastic – she was very impressed with the line and committed to launching 111SKIN with our full assortment at the time, courtesy of an impactful countertop in-store. We were thrilled.
Have you had any mentors along the way and if so, what has been the best advice they have imparted to you? I have met so many mentors along the way, it would be impossible to choose one. I think the best advice I received was that you are only as good as your team. The people you employ to support your business need to be passionate about the company, good at what they do and loyal. Ensuring they are integral to the fundamentals, success, and destiny of the company will produce the best outcome. You not only motivate them to excel but also create an environment of mutual respect.
Where do you stand in terms of investment? Would you advise entrepreneurs to avoid asking for investment at the outset of their business and is it important to remain in control? Investment is a very important decision in the history of the company, the Founder should carefully consider if they need an investment.
“My whole philosophy side of my skincare brand, 111SKIN is based on enhancing the powerful mechanisms the skin possesses to heal.”
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They should only acquire one if it is absolutely necessary or should consider if they can continue building and expanding the business without outside investment and support. If though, the decision has been made that investment is necessary there should be clear goals around where this investment should go. A very detailed, three-year business plan is paramount, advocating the use of funds to recruit talent and acquire potential expansion according to the business intentions. Finally, the Founder needs to really consider who the investor is and what their goals are. Your interests must be aligned. Often, they can bring much more than financial support – contacts, ideas, strategic planning and experience in other fields. Finally, I would never give control away as this takes away decision making, character and personality of the business. The only case when this is acceptable is towards the exit stage of a company.
Last year was a time that saw brands change strategy. Have you had to pivot as a business? Definitely. As customers were only able to shop online, we had to find ways to educate customers virtually – we launched virtual consultations, a subscription service, and a loyalty programme. Our clientele were also looking for products that would give them the same outcome as a clinical treatment – we spent extensive time creating products, such as our Concentrates that would provide these benefits.
Which is the 111 Skin hero product? Our first product, the Y Theorem Repair Serum. Formulated with NAC Y2, it accelerates skin healing, optimising cellular health and functions and restores the dynamic balance of skin. It contains a powerful combination of amino acids, peptides and antioxidants to restore skin’s health.
You also focus on facial reconstruction – can you expand on what this involves and does this extend to antiaging techniques? Facial reconstruction in the broad meaning of the phrase, means the correction of deformities that the face may have. This may be from an accident, or a burn, or congenital anomalies. Facial reconstruction has advanced tremendously the past 20 years, with the apogee being the facial transplantation where complete facial reconstruction has been visible in cases where before we had no other means of achieving results. However, in most of the cases of aesthetic surgery aesthetic reconstruction means rejuvenating the face into a state of where it was 10, 20 or even 30 years before. In this case, the techniques and knowledge of reconstructive surgery can be very helpful in aesthetic surgery and the two subspecialists overlap.
This kind of knowledge has been very helpful for me when I look to rejuvenate the face as I understand the deep structures and ageing mechanisms that have led to these changes.
What is the most challenging surgery you have ever performed? The diverse specialty, and amount of surgery I have performed is very high. However, I do recall a very difficult reconstruction surgery that I performed whilst at the University of Pittsburgh. In this case, three quarter of the face needed reconstruction after a gunshot injury which had removed the central part of the face and jaw. Multiple surgeries were performed, and this patient stayed in the intensive care unit for over a year until they were able to be released. However, at the end we had a successful outcome.
Are you always amazed by how the body heals and how can we optimize this? My whole philosophy side of my skincare brand, 111SKIN is based on enhancing the powerful mechanisms the skin possesses to heal. We see this in daily life in how powerful the body is in overcoming injuries, surgery, burns and are only starting to understand the inherent mechanism of healing in scientific ways. By enhancing the healing mechanisms of the skin, we have the ability of maintaining youthfulness by reversing the ageing signs, as supporting the healing mechanism of the skin on a daily basis may hold back the ageing mechanism.
What effect do you see social media having on the requests you receive in terms of surgery?
“It’s about beauty and quality of skin and understanding the ageing process inside and out.”
Social Media is playing a major role on how people perceive themselves; frequently younger people compare themselves with influencers and the like which can have an unhealthy effect on mental health. Social media has the potential to purvey an unrealistic ideal of aesthetics. I believe it is important for plastic surgeons and dermatologists to understand the psychology behind patients seeking some of these procedures, and whether they require proper counselling ahead of committing to procedures, ensuring they have a full grasp of the implications and motivations.
Who or what to you is iconic? My icon is Professor of Plastic Surgery, Ralph Millard. Ralph was one of the pioneers of facial reconstruction, particularly cleft lip and palate surgery. He is one of the professors I learnt from whilst studying in Miami who inspired me then and continues to inspire me in my work with patients today. In addition to the above, I was also inspired by my Grandfather who I was very close to as a young child. He taught me a lot about life and his achievements – starting from a small village in the island of Crete he became a leader in society, and one of the foremost figures in modern Crete. He had not completed his education but had harnessed a set of personal skills and emotional intelligence to set him apart. This tenacity inspired me to dedicate myself in what I want to do in life. I understood that with kindness and hard work nothing is impossible.