Toni Malt talks all things beauty
Dubai-based international make-up artist Toni Malt shares her top tips and tricks for the season’s runway beauty trends
Toni Malt is an award-winning makeup-artist and a beauty visionary. She became a renowned name in the beauty and fashion industry thanks to her innate talent and ability to create captivating looks. From minimalistic make-up to artistic creations, her work has been published by the biggest international fashion magazines.
Last year, Toni took the next step in her evolution as a makeup artist, as she opened her own makeup academy in Dubai, where she is based. Students at her academy learn how to recreate the 60-looks from her debut book Transform, which was published by Assouline.
Here, Toni takes us through three looks from her book: Heat Wave, Feline Sleek and Colour Pop.
Look 1 Heat Wave GET THE LOOK
Don’t just stick to lipstick and gloss to transform your lips to be bold and bright. A sweep of eye shadow over lipstick adds a shock of matte orange that cranks the heat right up. The secret to this beautiful ombre lip is eye shadow. I love mixing products and using them to multitask. I use blushes as eyeshadow and eyeshadows as contouring powders. I often make lipsticks by blending eyeshadow with Vaseline or clear gloss.
Since I had created a wet look for the skin using Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, I wanted to emphasise the hot-weather feeling by adding a contrasting matte lip. I applied Mac Lipstick in Morange, then I dabbed Yaby EyeShadow in es158 Pop Candy onto the centre of the lip using a Mac 239 Eye Shader Brush. It’s such a simple, effective technique.
PRODUCTS
BASE A little Mac Pro Full Coverage Foundation in NC20. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream over foundation. HIGHLIGHT Skin N Nature Cookie Marble Blusher in 01 Rose. CONTOUR Illamasqua Powder Blusher in Disobey. EYES Mac Eye Shadow in Taupe in the creases. Mac Eye Shadows in Omega and Vanilla applied on the lids and brow bones. Mac Eye Kohl in Fascinating on the waterlines. Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed Highlighter in Pearl on the inner corners. Mac 30 Lash single lashes in Medium and Long applied to the upper lash lines with Duo eyelash adhesive. One coat of black mascara on the top and bottom lashes. EYEBROW Inglot Brow Powders in 569 and 560. LIPS Mac lipstick in Morange. Yaby Eye Shadow in es158 Candy Pop. Mac 239 Eye Shader Brush.
Look 2 Feline Sleek GET THE LOOK
A bold and sharply defined cat eye is a timeless way to ramp up the glamour ante.
I love a crisp, exaggerated feline eye; it’s so bold, gutsy, and sexy while still looking really serene and innocent. The size of the cat-eye shape will depend on the eye shape of your model; I needed to go this big on the model's eyes to ensure I had a clean, smooth line. Hooded eyes tend to need this size of wing, but it’s possible to create a smaller shape for other eye shapes – the rule is that you need to be able to see the eyeliner on top of the moving eyelid.
After finishing my foundation, I used Chanel’s Écriture de Chanel in black to map out my shape –remember to ask your model to close her eyes until the eyeliner has dried. I like to do the eyeliner before I do any other eye make-up – that way, I can correct mistakes without destroying anything beneath. Once I had created the shape, I cleaned up the lines and filled it all in. I can’t stress enough the importance of taking your time; there is nothing worse than crooked eyeliner. Any mistakes can be cleaned up easily by dipping a pointy cotton swab into thick moisturiser and running it over the error.
Once the eyeliner was dry, I contoured the eye in the creases and below the lower lashes ever so slightly using Yaby es053 Rose Wood Eye Shadow. I then applied a second coat of eyeliner to remove any shadow falloff. To finish, I tightlined (filled in) the top and bottom waterlines with Mac Eye Kohl in Smolder and added a pair of Mac 45 Lashes to emphasize the outer corners of the eyes.
PRODUCTS
BASE Mac Pro Full Coverage in NC20. A little Make Up For Ever HD Powder to set. HIGHLIGHT Skin N Nature Cookie Marble Blusher in 01 Rose. CONTOUR Mac Sculpting Powder Pro Palettes in Sculpt and Shadowy. EYES Chanel Écriture de Chanel Eyeliner Pen in 10 Noir. Yaby es053 Rose Wood Eye Shadow (from the Yaby Dramatically Neutral palette) in the creases and below the lower lashes. Mac Eye Kohl in Smolder. Mac 45 Lash and lots of black mascara. EYEBROWS Using a mascara wand, brush a small amount of Mac Pro Full Coverage in NC15 through the eyebrows to lighten them (too much product will clump the brow hairs).LIPS Mac Lip Pencil in Naked. Rimmel Lasting Finish Matte Lipstick by Kate Moss in 25. Mac Clear Lipgloss to enhance.
Look 3 Colour Pop GET THE LOOK
Makeup goes 3-D with pop art–inspired coloured foam cutouts. This look takes direction from the technique originally invented by makeup artist Lisa Eldridge for Dansk magazine. I have always looked up to Lisa Eldridge. As a makeup artist, she is such an incredible talent – her creativity and depth of knowledge make her one of the leading artists of our time. The first time I saw cutouts being used in this way was on an editorial shoot she did for the Danish magazine Dansk, where she used paper cutouts. She then reimagined the look later in a campaign for Harvey Nichols. For all of Lisa’s tips and tricks, check out her blog at www.lisaeldridge.com.
For this look, I went to an arts and crafts store and purchased thin foam sheets. I outlined the shapes I needed and my team and I cut them out during our lunch break on one of the shoot days. I then stacked and glued the pieces of foam together using DUO eyelash adhesive and adhered them to the face with the glue. It is so easy and fun yet so effective.
PRODUCTS
BASE Charlotte Tilbury Light Wonder Foundation in 4 Fair. Make Up For Ever HD Powder to set. CONTOUR MAC Powder Blush in Taupe. LIPS MAC Lip Erase in Pale dabbed onto the lips. Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Press Highlighter in Pearl to highlight the Cupid’s bow. EYES MAC Powder Blush in Taupe to contour the creases and below the lower lashes. MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating to whiten the waterlines. Girls Aloud Lashes by Eylure in Nicola on the top lashes to enhance the eye shape. Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Press Highlighter in Pearl to highlight the inner corners of the eyes. CUTOUTS Thin coloured foam sheets. DUO eyelash adhesive.