Paul Andrew talks all things fashion
Creative Director of Salvatore Ferragamo talks fashion, innovation and Oprah
How has the brand evolved in the last three years since you joined?
It’s a real joy to reflect upon the last three years. This has been a time of wonderful growth – for me, the talented people with whom I work, and the brand itself. Though I hesitate to take too much credit for this… Ferragamo enjoys the most incredible heritage and has been on an impactful journey ever since its inception 75 years ago. What I've attempted, and hopefully been able to achieve with the help of my team and our master craftspeople, is an evolution towards inclusion, modernity, relevance, tech-forward construction, and global consciousness.
As a shoe designer did you always plan to move into ready-to-wear and did you ever expect to become the creative director of such an iconic fashion house?
Well, I was raised to dream big, so I have worked hard at every step of my education and career, applying myself with an appropriate measure of confidence. That said, I never expected a blessing of this magnitude to come my way. If I did anything right, it's been embracing the wonderful opportunities that presented themselves through the years, and fighting off the doubts that told me I couldn't do it. My background in shoe design made me a true stickler for precision. While ready-to-wear is relatively new for me, this penchant for detail has been vital as I've taken on apparel for women and, now, men. Seeing these full looks go from the drafting board to the runway is beyond my wildest dreams.
How do you keep moving the brand forward whilst keeping its DNA?
First, I remember whose name is on the label. Salvatore Ferragamo was a genius, an innovator, a disruptor of fashion norms, and a master craftsman. It is from his vast archives that I take regular inspiration – with accessories such as the Boxzy bag, throughout our shoe collections, and for runway looks. At the same time, I remain current and curious about the fashion world – at street level as well as in a global sense. I am ever curious about the subtleties of identity, the fun and power in experimenting with those boundaries. And then there's a question I ponder alongside the craftspeople with whom we have long worked and who have so expertly brought to life Ferragamo designs for years: how can we best integrate modern technology and eco-consciousness into our traditions, to create fresh concepts for our customers? That last bit is so important to me personally and I believe it’s yielding wonderful results.
What can we expect to see from S/S20?
Sleek and stylish pieces that work in unison, and lend themselves to a spectrum of lifestyles. Versatility, subtle elegance, and luxurious comfort are my watch words.
I'm big on classics with a twist, and the Ferragamo client will find elevated separates that work in unison with one another but also pair perfectly with their favorite jeans – be he or she 20-years-old or 70. For women, we are offering looks that celebrate strength, optimism, and influence. With womenswear, I'm going less sartorial and really feminine, which is new for me. Lots of dresses, a bit more skin, and impactful archival prints reworked for today. Meanwhile, I am making it a personal mission to liberate men from tired silhouettes, the traditionally limited colour palette, and the endless barrage of sportswear emblazoned with overblown logos. I’m all about ease of dressing without falling into the trap of being overly casual.
How have you aligned the accessories with the ready-to-wear to ensure they follow the same direction?
This is a large part of why Ferragamo tapped me to become creative director. Accessories are a huge element of the company's business and legacy, and it’s through shoes and accessories that the brand identity is most clearly recognised. Apparel is where we truly get to experiment, modernise, and explore what it means to integrate sophistication and style into daily life. So, if our footwear and accessories are emblematic of what we are about in a given season, it’s through ready-to-wear that we embody, or inhabit, that spirit.
What inspires you?
Each day brings with it many new sources of inspiration. My friends and colleagues of course, who are diverse, conscious contributors to the world in a variety of wonderful ways. The glorious subtleties and awesome power of nature. People who work hard and stand up for what they believe in. The potential of scientific exploration in all forms, and how good minds are always tirelessly at work to solve our issues. My family, whose love and support has been indispensable. Happy dogs and smiling children.
Do you have a muse?
I can think of a handful of women who exemplify sophistication and style in my mind… Michelle Obama, Jessica Chastain, Lupita Nyong'o. But my lifelong muse is absolutely my grandmother, Mary, who passed away last year. She was the most effortlessly chic woman, always pairing colour and texture in the coolest ways. Her silk scarves were to die for. You'll see nods to her throughout my collections. We have actually begun incorporating silk scarves into the twill we use for garments. I'm thinking she would be proud.
How has the fashion industry changed since you first started out?
The world has changed at a breathtaking clip, hasn't it? And with that, the fashion industry has undergone seismic shifts. Clearly, social media has changed our industry, as it has every other industry. We are all now global, interconnected individuals, whether we like it or not. I personally think it's wonderful. There are endless ways to blend and celebrate humanity. The generations coming up are conscious and engaged with issues, and fashion is adapting to reflect that. It is no longer cool to be blasé, nor is it acceptable to be sizeist, or prejudiced, or close-minded. Are there challenges that come along with such rapid expansion of consciousness? Temporary ones, but we find our way past them every day as an industry, and as humans in general.
What advice would you give to young designers?
What has worked for me is developing a perspective that I can fully get behind. I say, learn all you can about your craft and your customer. Have fun with your creative expression, and try to find ways to connect yourself to the world through it. And once you've developed your work to the point that you know it's good and right and ready, get it out there. Show people. Use social media platforms, submit your work to contests, consult friends and mentors. Be humble enough to take advice now and then. And surround yourself with positive people.
If you could have dinner with three people (dead or alive) who would they be?
Well, I have already mentioned Mary, my grandmother. The idea of dinner with just her again could bring tears to my eyes. If we were to have two more dinner companions, I suppose one would be Salvatore Ferragamo, my posthumous employer. I have a working collaboration with his spirit already, and he would be all about my grandmother. We could round out the dinner party with Oprah. Because everything is better with Oprah.
What’s the inspiration behind the Boxyz bag?
It’s my take on an archival bag from the 1980s, one that works for a wide cross section of women. The "xyz" at the end of the name refers to generations X, Y, and Z, all of whom are a priority to Ferragamo. It’s a great sized bag for all sorts of occasions, and we have added a lock closure detail and a hidden key within the leather strap that looks very smart. I’m so pleased that it’s resonating with people.
Who would you like to see wearing the Boxyz bag?
Hmm… Michelle Obama? I am inviting her to wear anything I make, with an engraved invitation.