Dubai’s newest dining experience is simple: it fits 18 people and serves 16 courses. But is it any good?
The world’s smallest finedining Indian restarant, Roberto’s Abu Dhabi and the dishes that helped inspire multi-michelin star chef Yannick Alleno
UP ON THE HIGH FLOORS of voco Dubai, (formerly known as the Nassima Royal Hotel), inside the restaurant Trèsind (and hidden behind an unsuspecting door) is Trèsind Studio — ‘The world’s smallest, most exclusive modern Indian restaurant’.
For all intents and purposes the recentlyopened Trèsind Studio is an unfussy private room for up to 18 people that offers a dedicated 16-course menu, which is part epicurean journey and part interactive food theatre.
The room is small and understated in décor, allowing the concept to take centre stage. For those aware of the work of Trèsind’s renowned chef Himanshu Saini, they will be anticipating something really quite special. Saini has been instrumental in pushing the envelope of what modern Indian cuisine in Dubai should be. Marrying the complex techniques of molecular gastronomy with traditional Indian staples, his creations are a weird and wonderful dip into a world of endless culinary possibilities.
Weaved into a hugely stimulating, two-hour experience were dishes including palate-cleansing aromatics, soups, crunchy chickpea tarts, lamb croquets, sorbet quenelles, spiced mushroom ravioli, Shiso leaves, beetroot fudge, popping candy, a steak served with five spiced sauces, Petit Fours and a 21-ingredient rice and lentil dish made individually in the chef’s show kitchen served in wooden bowls that the guests take back to their tables in homage to the way of life on the sub-continent.
With each of the 16 dishes presented more creatively than the last, the Trèsind Studio experience is not just delicious and boundarypushing but, above all, it is fun. And it is not likely to remain a secret for very much longer.
Voco Dubai. Monday to Saturday. 7pm to 11.30pm. tresind.com