Dubai’s new­est din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence is sim­ple: it fits 18 peo­ple and serves 16 cour­ses. But is it any good?

Esquire Middle East - - IN THIS ISSUE -

The world’s small­est fine­din­ing In­dian restarant, Roberto’s Abu Dhabi and the dishes that helped in­spire multi-miche­lin star chef Yan­nick Al­leno

UP ON THE HIGH FLOORS of voco Dubai, (for­merly known as the Nas­sima Royal Ho­tel), in­side the restau­rant Trèsind (and hid­den be­hind an un­sus­pect­ing door) is Trèsind Stu­dio — ‘The world’s small­est, most ex­clu­sive mod­ern In­dian restau­rant’.

For all in­tents and pur­poses the re­cent­ly­opened Trèsind Stu­dio is an un­fussy pri­vate room for up to 18 peo­ple that of­fers a ded­i­cated 16-course menu, which is part epi­curean jour­ney and part in­ter­ac­tive food the­atre.

The room is small and un­der­stated in dé­cor, al­low­ing the con­cept to take cen­tre stage. For those aware of the work of Trèsind’s renowned chef Hi­man­shu Saini, they will be an­tic­i­pat­ing some­thing re­ally quite spe­cial. Saini has been in­stru­men­tal in push­ing the en­ve­lope of what mod­ern In­dian cui­sine in Dubai should be. Mar­ry­ing the com­plex tech­niques of molec­u­lar gas­tron­omy with tra­di­tional In­dian sta­ples, his cre­ations are a weird and won­der­ful dip into a world of end­less culi­nary pos­si­bil­i­ties.

Weaved into a hugely stim­u­lat­ing, two-hour ex­pe­ri­ence were dishes in­clud­ing palate-cleans­ing aro­mat­ics, soups, crunchy chick­pea tarts, lamb cro­quets, sor­bet quenelles, spiced mush­room ravi­oli, Shiso leaves, beet­root fudge, pop­ping candy, a steak served with five spiced sauces, Pe­tit Fours and a 21-in­gre­di­ent rice and len­til dish made in­di­vid­u­ally in the chef’s show kitchen served in wooden bowls that the guests take back to their ta­bles in homage to the way of life on the sub-con­ti­nent.

With each of the 16 dishes pre­sented more cre­atively than the last, the Trèsind Stu­dio ex­pe­ri­ence is not just de­li­cious and bound­ary­push­ing but, above all, it is fun. And it is not likely to re­main a se­cret for very much longer.

Voco Dubai. Mon­day to Satur­day. 7pm to 11.30pm.

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