Esquire Middle East

The eye of the beholder

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER’S new Tonda PF collection is a purist’s delight

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AParmigian­i Fleurier timepiece is unlikely to be your first watch. However, because of the brand’s history, high quality of watchmakin­g, iconic design hallmarks and attention to detail, it will be one that immediatel­y catches the eye of any watch aficionado.

A case in point is the revered Swiss watchmaker’s all-new collection, the Tonda PF. Released to celebrate the 25th anniversar­y of the Parmigiani Fleurier brand, the new addition to the Tonda family is built around the maison’s most iconic in-house movements, running a wide gamut of complicati­ons and culminatin­g in a limited edition, all-platinum, award-winning split-seconds chronograp­h.

Ultimately, the Tonda PF is an extension to the Tonda collection, which at 40-42mm is a sportier profile that showcases the manufactur­er’s prowess in producing fine timepieces with an integrated bracelet.

It features a clean design with subtle details such as the fluted bezel, Grain d’orge guilloché dial, and a myriad of polishing styles that accentuate the quality of the maison.

Aesthetica­lly, the collection offers a mature—and almost sartorial—approach to watchmakin­g, where cloth is replaced by metal and weaving by dial pattern. The silhouette of the pieces’ design echo those of a Neapolitan or Sicilian tailors, where fluidity, proportion­s and taste play a key role. Like any jacket that originates in those institutio­ns of male elegance, the Tonda PF is tailored to withstand the passing of time and trends, and remain relevant.

The collection’s hands are newly designed to be slim, long and almost entirely openworked. Notably, they are also made of solid gold. The bezel—a direct link to the Tonda collection— features a sleek, polished part and another that’s been knurled by hand, and is crafted out of solid platinum 950 for the steel models. Rather than using the same steel as the rest of the case and bracelet, Parmigiani Fleurier elected to work with this highly precious metal, not for the sake of exclusivit­y, but because it plays better with the light and gives a more artisanal feeling once polished by hand.

The case band on all four references of the Tonda PF line deserves closer examinatio­n.

It is not straight, but slightly bassiné (wider near the bezel and narrower on the wrist), which provides the overall design with a sense of increased slimness. The surface is horizontal­satin-finished all around as is the upper surface of the lugs.

The range of references within the Tonda PF collection are connected by a range of distinct design cues. The PF logo appears at 12 o’clock, nestled in a vertical, oval, double-edged appliqué with extensive finishings. The standout Grain d’orge guilloché dial pattern is a triumph of intricate detailing—any smaller and it

would be invisible, any larger and it would be obtrusive, therefore defeating the collection’s purpose of being refined and dedicated to exclusivit­y and modern timelessne­ss.

The range includes the Tonda PF Microrotor, a slim, pared-down, high-end twohander with platinum micro-rotor; the Tonda PF Chronograp­h—with an almost flush dial and an integrated high frequency chronograp­h movement; and the Tonda PF Annual Calendar (shown above in Rose Gold) that carries a retrograde date which demonstrat­es how discretely indication­s can be integrated into a pared-down design. All three models are available in steel with platinum hand-knurled bezel or entirely crafted in 18ct rose gold.

At the top of the range, Parmigiani Fleurier is grooming a limited series of the Tonda PF Split-seconds Chronograp­h. Fitting for a 25th Anniversar­y, its 25 pieces feature a dial, case and bracelet made of platinum 950, whose high frequency, openworked, award-winning splitsecon­ds chronograp­h movement is built out of solid gold. Any watch aficionado would approve.

 ?? ?? The design detailing of the new Tonda PF collection by Parmigiani Fleurier
The design detailing of the new Tonda PF collection by Parmigiani Fleurier
 ?? ?? Aesthetica­lly, the collection showcases a mature, and almost sartorial approach to watchmakin­g
Aesthetica­lly, the collection showcases a mature, and almost sartorial approach to watchmakin­g

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