IN THE ’HOOD
Learn more about what is truly the amazing tradition of pearl diving off Ras Al Khaimah.
On a small strip of Ras Al Khaimah’s coast, Sangeetha Swaroop finds out how a few men are trying to keep the endangered tradition of pearl diving alive
When the pale view of the mountain range looms up on the horizon, you know you are approaching your destination. Until then, the road to Ras Al Khaimah is marked by rust-coloured sand dunes peppered with sturdy tufts of green alongside modern housing clusters under construction. But now, well past the city centre, as the majestic views of the Hajjar mountain range tower over you, the drive towards Al Rams, a sleepy fishing hamlet on the northern tip of Ras Al Khaimah, takes an interesting turn. With the backdrop of the dramatic mountains, the spectacular scenery unfolds with every turn on the road until at last, you watch it slope into the water. And it is here, on a sliver alongside the sea and the mountains that Al Rams nestles, a place today popularly known for its fishing activities.
But it is to delve into the ancient history of pearling that had once catapulted this tiny region to international fame that bring us to Al Rams where a cultured pearl farm is carefully preserving this rich legacy. Taking us on a fascinating trip to the yesteryears, to a time when pearling was once the pillar of the country’s economy, is Abdullah Al Suwaidi, who set up the region’s first cultured pearl farm in 2005 on the very waters that had produced the finest Arabian pearls coveted by royals, nobles and celebrities in distant lands. As the grandson of one of the last remaining pearl divers of the UAE, through his pearl farm, Suwaidi is singlehandedly working to revive a tradition and industry that disappeared from the Gulf region almost a century ago.
At the harbour, before we board the traditional pearling boat to visit the pearl farm at the foot of Jebel Rams, we watch the men go about their daily routine of mending nets and cleaning after the morning catch is done. In this idyllic haven with its blue, clear skies, a gentle breeze in the air and an awe-inspiring jagged landscape all around, they seem content and happy with their lives.
The boat has been decked out in a traditional majlis style, and we are offered dates, water and coffee, as soon as we settle down. It is a high tide day, an ideal condition for navigating the
shallow waters, says Suwaidi, as we glide into the gently bobbing waters.
‘Nature, culture, treasures – these are the highlights of this trip,’ he says, by way of introduction to the pearl farm tour. ‘Al Rams is blessed with the bounty of nature – grey mountains, turquoise waters, mangroves teeming with marine and bird life, and a tranquil, serene environment.
‘It is precisely this pristine and thriving ecosystem that has seen this region produce some of the world’s finest pearls famed for their incredible lustre and luminosity,’ he adds. ‘The quality of a pearl depends on the quality of the environment in which it grows. The fresh water that pours down from the mountains, reduces the salinity and infuses it with oxygen creating an ideal condition for reproduction and food supply for the healthy growth of the pearl oysters.’
Formerly known as Julphar, this region was a dominant political and pearling centre during the 17th century, boasted of large pearling beds and was also close to the Strait of Hormuz that enabled trade to distant regions of the world. Although pearling was once the lifeblood of the local community and the UAE’s main source of wealth, what is more fascinating, believes Suwaidi, ‘is the way it melded into the social structure of the society, leaving behind a rich heritage of traditions.’
At the mangroves in the far distance, we catch sight of pink flamingoes dipping their large, curved beaks into the water. We notice herons and egrets, and a host of other birdlife circling low over the wooded mangroves. ‘Mangroves are nature’s gift; they harbour a thriving biodiverse ecosystem from marine and sea creatures to birds and smaller animals,’ explains Suwaidi.
Yonder is a stretch of sandy shore where we glimpse at a herd of around 20 to 25 camels grazing in the natural environment. We watch as they walk in a straight line while one strays off towards the water for a luxurious dip.
As we edge closer towards the 4,000 square metre farm, a large sea turtle pops its head out of the water and dives in just as quickly. When Suwaidi points out that only one out of every thousand turtle hatchlings will survive until maturity, we realise we are fortunate to have seen a mature adult in its natural habitat.
We notice that seagulls are perched on all the buoys holding the oyster mesh baskets in place. ‘This is because oysters attract plenty of small fish which the seagulls feed on,’ explains Suwaidi as we embark and enter the Suwaidi Pearls Arabian Pearl Farm – a large pearling boat anchored next to the oyster breeding grounds.
It is here that we learn more about the country’s pearling heritage as Suwaidi takes us on a historical journey that starts with the
The thriving ecosystem of Al Rams area in Ras Al Khaimah is the reason why the region produces the world's finest pearls known for their lustre