JIL SANDER

Agrass green pullover, a similar style in tobacco brown and a series of collars embroidered with naif animal designs, were the only bright lights in the otherwise total black Jil Sander menswear collection.

Pale-faced models walked one-by-one through a stage door onto a dimly lit runway in black coats, black jackets, black trousers, black gloves and classic black laced shoes during the presentation of Belgian designer Raf Simons’ latest collection for the label known for its minimalist style.

This round, more than minimalist, the collection is monochromatic and at times monotonous.

The predominant look is tailored, with leather the favourite material. Jackets tend to fit close to the body, while trousers are super wide and cuffed.

As in other shows seen on the opening day of the four-day preview showings for next year’s chilly season, doublebreasted styles make a comeback in a season that promises to dwell on the safe past rather than the rocky present.

Focal point of the revisited look is an extra long, black leather trench coat belted at the waist. Paired with the omnipresent black leather trousers, gloves and classic lace-ups, it lends a vaguely cloak-and-dagger feel to the entire collection.

“Great, if you’re into serial-killer fashion,” one fashionista was overheard commenting after the show.