From convention
PASSAGE TO INDIA
Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean has climbed the Himalayans for inspiration, giving rise to richly woven cropped sweaters paired with big, feminine 1950s style skirts, coats decorated with colourful tassels of yarn and high-waist men’s plaid trousers worn with an elaborate embroidered belt with two pockets. Jean’s adherence to Italian tailoring ground the looks. MEDIEVAL FAIRY TALE
Like the fairy tale princesses who have danced all night, Alberta Ferretti’s woman strides confidently through the forest as the sun rises. She is tussled from a night of merrymaking, but without a second thought. The looks are romantic, from the deep red sheer dress with floral overlays and knit arms and hemline to the crocheted mini-dress over a white lace collar. SICILIAN PUNK
Fausto Puglisi combined a punk aesthetic with elements taken from his native Sicily. He used corallike beadwork, giving spectacular accent to his gladiator skirt, worn with a bra top and a plaidpanelled overcoat, and a double front-slit gown. He topped his creations with oversized jewelled necklaces and belts. ROLLERCOASTER
Philip Plein went out of his way to dream up a dizzying intro for his latest show: Azealia Banks performed and a roller-coaster circled in the background.
Models were attired for a night of loud music in leather bra tops and matching athletic drawstring pants, with a fur huggy for warmth, or leather mini dresses with cut-out panels.