Truffle sniffing has gone to the dogs

Animals in demand to detect pungent fungus as more landowners plant orchards In Europe, truffle hunters traditionally used pigs, but in recent years the job has gone to the dogs, which are easier to manage, less conspicuous and less likely to eat the tast

The growing appetite for truffles is feeding demand for dogs trained to sniff out the pungent fungus prized by chefs and foodies.

As more landowners plant orchards in hopes of harvesting truffles, more dogs are being trained to detect the earthy delicacies, which take several years to ripen on tree roots underground.

“There is huge demand for truffle dogs right now,” said Alana McGee, co-founder of the Truffle Dog Company, which helps orchard owners search for truffles and trains dogs how to find them in orchards or in the wild.

“Truffle-hunting is right up their alley. It’s fun for the dogs. They get rewarded for using their noses, which is how they see the world,” she said.

On a recent morning, McGee’s dog Lolo, a brown and white Lagotto Romagnolo, sniffed for signs of Perigord and burgundy truffles on the roots of oak and hazelnut trees planted next to Robert Sinskey’s vineyards in Carneros, California.

Sinskey was the first Napa Valley winemaker to plant a truffle orchard five years ago and wants to be the first California grower to harvest truffles, hopefully next year. He plans to have McGee teach his dogs the art of trufflehunting.

“I hope my dogs will finally be able to earn their keep,” Sinskey said. “It will be nice to see them actually work.”

Lolo is an Italian breed commonly used to hunt truffles, but McGee said any dog can be trained. “It’s about working with the dogs’ personalities and different learning styles.”

Shrinking supplies

In Europe, truffle hunters traditionally used pigs, but in recent years the job has gone to the dogs, which are easier to manage, less conspicuous and less likely to eat the tasty tubers or bite a hand trying to snatch one from its mouth.

Known as the diamonds of the culinary world, most black truffles come from Europe or Australia and cost $800 (Dh2,938) to $1,200 per pound (0.45kg).

But supplies are shrinking while appetites are expanding worldwide, said Robert Chang, chief truffle officer of the American Truffle Company.